There are two tools available for datalogging on Honda ECUs from www.moates.net and they include the HULOG and the HondaLog.

HULOG: The HULOG comes in a plastic enclosure and ONLY requires a pin swap if it is an older unit. All the new units come with 1:1 connector pinning, so will differ from the pictures shown in that no pin swap is required or will be present on the extension cable. It can be mounted externally or internally, depending on whether you want to pass the 4-pin header cable or a USB cable out of your ECU.

HondaLog: The HondaLog can be mounted directly to the ECU with no interconnecting cable It can also be mounted at the end of a 4-pin tether cable. Either way, no pin swap is required (note color of wires and their order in the pictures). The unit is shipped with two pinning options in terms of the attachment header. It also comes with a piece of shrink-wrap tubing in case you want to ‘wrap that rascal’ when you’re done. Either way, it goes to your USB cable and PC on the other end.

Pictures are shown below for the two units. The installation header is a 4-pin latching unit, and comes with the moates.net Honda Chipping Kits. You can alternatively use a 4-pin 0.025″ square-post breakaway header. Please take note of the directionality of the latch on the interconnecting cable though, since that is critical.

HULOG Pictures

HondaLog Pictures



]]> https://support.moates.net/huloghondalog-installation/feed/ 0 https://support.moates.net/honda-tuning-with-crome/ https://support.moates.net/honda-tuning-with-crome/#respond Mon, 10 May 2010 05:31:23 +0000 http://support.moates.net/?p=848 Although quite outdated, this is a very nice PDF tutorial written up by Darren Kattan. Check it out by clicking HERE

With that out of the way, you’re looking at this page because your USB drivers are very broken.  You have devices in Device Manager with yellow exclamation marks that cannot load, cannot start or just plain don’t work.  This procedure will forcibly remove everything FTDI related and allow you to start over with a clean slate.

1. Step one: download FTCLEAN from FTDI’s website – link
2. Step two: unzip the file into a directory on your computer.
3. Step three: run FTCLEAN.EXE
4. Step four: click “Clean system” then click Yes to confirm
5. Step five: REINSTALL FTDI DRIVERS!!!  You should be starting from scratch.

Almost all Moates.net products have a USB interface to connect to a computer. (ALDU1, HULOG, Hondalog, BURN1/2, Ostrich 1/2, Roadrunner, Quarterhorse, Jaybird) Fortunately, all Moates.net products with a USB interface use the same USB support chip so they can all use the same drivers. This makes it easy for you – one driver install will take care of ALL Moates products! Check out USB Driver Installation for more on how to reinstall drivers.

The chip in our devices is made by a company called FTDI. This chip is VERY common and is used in everything from USB-serial and USB-parallel adapters sold in computer stores to other automotive electronics products. This is important because of the possibility of a driver conflict between drivers for your Moates.net devices and other devices that also use the FTDI chips. AEM FIC, Hondata S300 and K-Pro and the USB Instruments Stingray and Swordfish (among others) have a tendency to obliterate our drivers and cause driver conflicts. Be warned: the troubleshooting instructions later on this page may cause other devices that use the FTDI chips to stop working. Tip: If you start having driver conflicts, installing the latest drivers from FTDI will often be enough to resolve conflicts and make everything work again.

Making Sure Everything is Working and Configured

First step to making sure you don’t have a connection issue is to unplug all USB devices that are not absolutely necessary from your computer.

First, Right click on My Computer. (You might find this on the desktop, you might find this in your start menu. Desktop pictured)

Next, go to the Hardware tab and select “Device Manager.” (note: Windows XP is pictured, but the exact placement of device manager may vary slightly in Win98 and Vista)

Next, go to the “Ports” section of device manager and click the + sign next to it to open it, if it is not already open. You should see something like this:

Now plug in ONE of your Moates.net devices. We are going to plug them in one at a time to figure out which ports Windows is assigning to them. Assuming everything is working, you should see something like this in device manager:

The “USB Serial Port” device pictured is using COM10. Some software has issues with COM ports greater than 8, so the first thing we are going to do is change the port it uses to a port less than 8. Looking at device manager, you can see that Bluetooth Communications Port has used COM5 and a Communications Port has used COM1. We should not use either of these ports. We are going to change to COM3, which is unused. First step: right click on the “USB Serial Port” device and click “Properties.”

Next, click on the “Port Settings” tab at the top of the Window.

Next click the “Advanced” button.

On this screen, there are several things to change. First change the COM Port Number to COM3, the port we decided was open. If all of your ports say “in use” you can still select them, but it is recommended you find an unused port under 8. Second, set the Latency Timer to 1 msec. When you are done, click OK on this screen and the driver screen that follows until you are back at Device Manager.

These are the optimal settings for our devices (COM1 – COM8 and Latency = 1ms). If you had trouble, try again with these settings. Remember which port your device was using in device manager when it comes time to configure your tuning software.

Common Issues with USB Drivers and Connections

It is possible to disable devices in Windows. Sometimes this can happen accidentally. If a device is disabled, it has a red X across its icon, like the Bluetooth Communications Port in this picture.

To enable it, right click on the device and select “Enable.” Afterwards, the device should not have a red X across its icon.

Devices can also have issues loading or have device driver problems. When this happens, a yellow exclamation mark appears. Almost 100% of the time, this is a sign that you need to reinstall device drivers. If a simple reinstall does not fix the issue, there is a more heavyhanded method to reinstall drivers using FTCLEAN.

As a rule of thumb, the WHQL drivers which will be downloaded automatically will work fine.  However, it is recommended that you use the drivers from our site with Win98, WinXP and Vista.  Automatic drivers will generally work fine for Win7 but there are certain known good drivers.  We specifically recommend the latest drivers available from FTDI for machines running Windows 8, 8.1, Win10 or newer.

Specifically recommended driver versions:

• Windows 98/ME drivers can be downloaded by clicking here.
• Windows 2000/XP/Vista drivers can be downloaded by clicking here.
• There is a Vista Specific Guide that may be helpful to those running Vista.  Vista is also known to work well with the 2.08.x.x series of drivers in addition to the drivers listed above.
• Windows 7 is known to be stable with the 2.08.24 driver (available under “no longer supported drivers”) as well as the 2.12.x.x series (latest at time of writing) which are both available here.  In some cases, the 2.08 series works better than 2.12 series, your mileage may vary.  Use of drivers older than the 2.08 series is not recommended!
• 8 and 8.1 are known to be stable with the 2.08.24 driver (available under “no longer supported drivers”) as well as the 2.12.x.x series (latest at time of writing) which are both available here.  In some cases, the 2.08 series works better than 2.12 series, your mileage may vary.  Use of drivers older than the 2.08 series is not recommended!
• Windows 10 and newer machines are highly recommended to use the latest and greatest VCP drivers available directly from the USB chip’s manufacturer here. (at time of writing: 2.12.28.0)  In rare cases, the 2.08.24 driver (available under “no longer supported drivers”) can work better but this is NOT recommended.  Use of drivers older than the 2.08 series is known to cause issues!

If you have trouble, start with this troubleshooting guide.

If you have trouble, you may also want to look at FTDI’s Installation Guides for your OS.

This article was accurate as of the time it was written (2009) but things may have changed.  At Moates.net, we rely on information from our users about what works and what doesn’t work.  Please investigate on PGMFI.org and elsewhere to confirm the information you find here!  Things may have changed and we may not be in the loop.

Unsupported Vehicles

• V6 Hondas have very limited hardware and software support
• K-series Hondas have no support from hardware we make at this time
• 2001+ non-K series Hondas (D17, R18, etc.) have no support from hardware we make at this time
• Automatic Hondas have very limited support. Very little has been done with automatic transmission controls and many tuning packages eliminate the code used to control auto transmissions.

Unsupported ECUs

• Anything pre-1988 probably lacks spark control. There isn’t much if anything available software-wise for these ECUs. You might find 24 or 28 pin EPROMs inside, you might not. Your mileage may vary.
• 1988-1991 DPFI (Dual Point Fuel Injection – Throttle Body Injection) ECUs have zero software support. 90-91 models can be chipped like an OBD1 ECU hardware-wise, but that doesn’t solve the software issue.
• 1988-1989 Civic Si (PM6) and 1988-1991 CRX HF ECU (PM8) require a daughterboard we do not sell in order to be chipped. Use a 90-91 ECU on these model years.
• 1992-1995 JDM GSR Automatic ECUs (hardware design makes chipping them impossible. Auto JDM P30s are ok)
• 1996-2001 ECUs (OBD II – hardware design makes chipping very difficult to impossible, requires surface mount soldering tools and chips no longer available on the market.)
• Prelude ECUs (trivially chippable, but unless you are going to develop the software support, it doesn’t currently exist)
• V6 ECUs from Legend (early models can be trivially chipped, but unless you are going to develop the software support, it doesn’t currently exist)
• NSX ECUs (early models can be trivially chipped, but unless you are going to develop the software support, it doesn’t currently exist)
• Basically any ECU other than an Integra or Civic ECU is not well-supported

This information was last updated 2/4/09 by Dave Blundell.

Overview

The HuLog, HondaLog, and Xtreme HuLog are USB datalogging adapters that are used to datalog Honda ECUs.

Functionally the devices are identical, however the HuLog/Xtreme HuLog come in ABS plastic enclosures for protection.

Also, the Xtreme HuLog will retain its COM port assignment regardless of what USB port is used.

Tips and Tricks

To achieve maximum performance out of this device (and all Moates devices) we recommend setting the latency timer to 1 ms. This can be changed in Windows XP by using the following procedure:

1. Control Panel
2. System
3. Hardware
4. Device Manager
5. Ports (COM and LPT)
6. USB Serial Port (COMx)
7. Port Settings
8. Advanced
9. Latency Timer

Compatibility

The HondaLog/HuLog is compatible with:

• CROME Pro
• eCtune
• Neptune

How to Buy

Please visit the Xtreme HuLog’s page in our website here

3 Basic rules for using HULOG/Hondalog

1. ECU Must be chipped.  Properly.  Software must be installed in the chip WHICH MATCHES THE SOFTWARE ON YOUR PC.  Different versions of software on the PC can require different modifications to bin/chip.  Yes, upgrading your PC software can break logging until you “upgrade” the software in your chip, too.
2. There is no plug n play for this stuff.  Even if the drivers are installed automatically by Windows, software on your PC MUST BE CONFIGURED MANUALLY to match the hardware you are using and the modifications done to the bin/chip.  There are several incompatible options and you must have the SAME on both the chip and your PC.
3. J12 (US/EU/big case) or J4 (JDM/small case) is required to be removed for all known aftermarket software

Only certain Hondas can be tuned using our hardware. In short, these are any vehicles that run a B, D, H, or F (Accord) series engine with a distributor and can run an OBD I ECU. Whether they accept these ECUs natively or via an OBD II to OBD I or OBD0 to OBD I conversion harness makes no difference.

Some of the OBD0 (pre-92) vehicles can be chipped and tuned natively, but the OBD I software tools are so much more advanced and user friendly that it is worth considering converting these vehicles to OBD1 with a conversion harness when possible.

If you have a 1996-2001 Honda, you will need to remove your stock OBD2 ECU and plug-in a supported OBD I ECU via a conversion harness. Please make sure you order the appropriate harness for your car as different model years used different connectors.

Supported Vehicles

• 1992-2000 Civic (1996-2000 Civics require OBD2-OBD1 conversion harness, use 92-95 OBD1 ECU)
• 1992-2001 Integra (1996-2001 Integras require OBD2-OBD1 conversion harness, use OBD1 ECU)
• 1992-2001 Prelude/Accord (1996-2001 Preludes require OBD2-OBD1 conversion harness, requires Integra or Civic OBD1 ECU swap, )
• 1988-1991 Civic/CRX Si-HF or swapped cars (can use OBD1 ECU and OBD1 tools with OBD1/OBD2 distributor swap and conversion harness)
• 1988-1991 Integra/CR-X/Civic with B16A swap (requires PR3/PW0 ECUs to use as OBD0 Vtec)
• 1990-1991 Civic/CRX Si D16A6 (will have PM6 ECU, ready to use as OBD0 non-vtec)
• 1988-1989 Civic/CRX Si, 1988-1991 CRX HF (requires use of a 90-91 ECU to use as OBD0 non-vtec)

Supported ECUs

• 1992-1995 Civic (P05 | P06 | P08 | P28)
• 1994-1995 Del Sol VTEC (P30)
• 1992-1995 Integra GS-R (P61, P72)
• 1992-1995 Integra RS/LS/GS/SE (PR4 | P74 | P75)
• 1992-1995 JDM Civic, Integra, Del Sol, etc. (P30, P72, P54, P08, etc. small square case. Place note in order!!! JDM ECUs require different parts than USDM)
• Chippable OBD-0 ECUs (PW0 | PR3 | PM6)
• see also pgmfi wiki on the subject

Note: If you do not see your car or ECU specifically listed here, please check to make sure you do not have an unsupported setup before purchasing anything!

Supported Tuning Software

• Neptune (targets primarily 92-95 OBD1 ECU hardware, very actively developed, advanced feature set, per-vehicle licensing)
• eCtune (targets primarily 92-95 OBD1 ECU hardware, starting to be poorly maintained, advanced feature set, per-vehicle licensing)
• CROME Pro (targets OBD1 ECUs, supports datalogging, getting to be poorly maintained, great for “simple” tunes, flexible licensing)  There is a very nice PDF tutorial written up by Darren Kattan. Check it out by clicking HERE.
• CROME (as above, free but without datalogging support)
• BRE (Primarily targets OB0 Vtec computers: PR3, PW0. Also has limited support for PM6. Only recommended for “simple” setups. Not very actively supported)
• TurboEdit (Primarily targets OBD0 non-vtec computers, i.e. PM6. Only recommended for non-vtec engines and very simple setups. Not very actively supported)
• Uberdata (Older application. Targets OBD1 platform. Once thought to be dead but seems to be some recent development activity)
• FreeLog (Free, datalogging package, works with Crome, not heavily supported/updated.)