Lately, there have been several users having issues getting a Nissan ECU with a 20×2 header that looks like it should be compatible with Nismotronic to work.  There are some extremely subtle differences between the ECUs that do and do not work.

Identifying Problematic ECUs

All of the ECUs that we have seen so far which do not work are SR20DE ECUs that have the identification “B57-4” printed on their circuit board.

Not all of these ECUs are incompatible.  Most have a helper chip that says “260” on them.  These function normally without issue:

However, a select few of these ECUs have a helper chip that says “280” on them.  These do not currently function with the Nismotronic board AT ALL:

Solutions

At this time, we have no solution for using Nismotronic with ECUs with “280” multi function chips.  The recommended solution is not to use ECUs with the “280” chip.

This is on our to-fix list but we have no ETA.  We are not yet sure whether hardware will need to be redesigned to accommodate this IC or whether a firmware update will suffice.  In any case, units would need to be returned to home base – this will not be a field upgrade.  This page will be updated as we have more information.

The hardware portion of the NEMU tuning package requires installation in an ECU to be functional.  This install is NOT for beginners, although it is not extremely difficult with the correct tools.  This article will walk you through the install from start to finish with lots of pictures along the way.  If you still have any questions about the install after reading this, please contact us via email.

Tools

We are going to use the following tools:

• Cordless screw gun / drill (recommended) or Phillips screwdriver (required)
• De-soldering tool with vacuum source (required)
• Hot-air pencil (recommended)
• Soldering iron with relatively fine point (required)
• Extremely fine tipped tweezers (recommended)
• Pick or extremely small flat head screwdriver (recommended)
• Wire cutters (recommended)
• Wire strippers (recommended)
• Heavy duty snips/cutters, small hacksaw, dremel (recommended)

Procedure

1. Remove both the top and bottom case from the ECU.   You will want to have the ECU on a flat surface so you can apply a LOT of downward pressure before you start to turn the screw.  Nissan ECU screws have some kind of threadlocker on them from the factory and it is VERY easy to strip and/or break them.  We highly recommend the use of a screw gun like the one pictured here.
2. Find the 20×2 connector where NEMU will attach.  Use your De-soldering Iron to cleanly remove the solder from all 20 holes.  Be careful to not overheat the circuit board and burn up a trace.  ( Click herefor a video of a professional using high quality tools to effectively de-solder components.)
   

   Cleanly desolder all contacts of 20x2 header

3. Remove the 20×2 pin header connector and provided solder from the bag included in your NEMU kit.  Push the pin header through the 20×2 holes in the PCB you just de-soldered.  Make sure the alignment keyway faces INWARDS.
   

   Keyway faces inwards!

4. Use your soldering iron and the included length of solder to solder all pin connections.
   

   20x2 header, soldered

   Be careful not to use too much heat, too little heat, too much solder or too little solder.   Click Here for a video of a professional using high quality tools to effectively solder.  Davy Jones’ EEVblog also has a great series of video tutuorials on soldering.  (Part1Part2Part3)

5. Look at the bottom of the ECU.  Find the surface mount jumper labelled CJ1.  Use your hot air pencil and tweezers to remove and grab it.
   

   Remove J1

   If you don’t have hot air, you can CAREFULLY use a soldering iron placed parallel to the jumper to melt its solder connections while applying GENTLE pressure to free it from the PCB.

6. Use your tweezers and soldering iron to re-solder the jumper in CJ2 position instead of CJ1 where it was originally installed.  This enables the 20×2 port instead of stock ECU operation.  If you lose or damage the jumper removing it, you can use a small piece of wire or even a solder bridge.
   

   Solder CJ2 into place

7. Take your NEMU circuit board out of its protective anti-static bag and gently install it in the shrouded 20×2 pin header that you have just installed.  This is just a temporary install for fitment purposes – you do not need to fully seat the NEMU at this time.  Treat it carefully.
8. Now find the 4 pin connector with 4- 6″ wires hanging out of it.
   

   4 pin connector with wires

9. For the sake of tidiness, trim off the black wire as it is not used. (This is not REQUIRED but recommended)
   

   Datalogging header, ready to install with 3 wires

   Note: the position NOT the color of the wire is important.  If your pigtail has a different color wires, pay attention and pick the wire in the same spot in the connector.

10. Each of the three remaining wires needs to be soldered to a pin on the blue ECU connector.  The wires provided are much longer than they need to be.  We are going to trim the wires so they are closer to the length necessary.  Plug the 4 pin connector into the NEMU board and then move the three wires to the center of the blue connector for sizing purposes.
    

    Measure...

11. Make a cut right by the blue ECU connector to get started.  You’ll find that having wires that are almost the right size makes them a lot easier to handle.
    

    and cut!

12. The red wire is going to get soldered to the ‘top’ pin closest to the center divider on the left side.  Cut it closer to size.  Remember, it’s a lot easier to cut it shorter again than it is to have to solder two wires together to lengthen it!  If in doubt, leave it longer.  Repeat the sizing procedure for the yellow and orange wires.  They will go to the top and bottom pins closest to the center divider on the right side.  See the following picture of how things will look when they’re done: (The colors look a little funny because of lighting – red on left, orange center lower, brown center upper)
13. After you have sized all 3 wires, gently squeeze the black locking tab on the connector to remove the 4 pin datalogging connector from the NEMU board.  You’ll find the rest of this procedure is a lot easier with the freedom to move around.
14. Strip about 1/4″ to 1/2″ of insulation off the end of each wire with a pair of wire strippers.
15. Using the soldering iron, warm up the strands of each exposed metal wire for a few seconds.  After you’ve warmed them up, gently touch some solder to the wire itself NOT the soldering iron.  When it is hot enough, the wire will wick up the solder.  (this is called tinning the wire.  You can see a pro demonstrate here or here )  You just need a little bit of solder – don’t goop it.  Having the wires tinned will make it much easier to attach them to ECU pins.
16. I prefer to start with the most difficult wire to solder so there aren’t other wires in the way – I personally think this is the lower connection on the right side, with the orange wire.  Before trying to solder this connection, we are going to bend the tinned end into a ‘U’ shape so that it will “hook” on the pin.
17. Trim the wire so it is quite short.  You don’t need much of a hook for this technique to work effectively.
18. Hook the orange wire on the lower pin on the right side.  You may find it is helpful to squeeze or even wrap the tinned end of the wire around the pin so that it will stay on the pin without you actually holding it.  Apply heat to BOTH the ECU pin and wire with your soldering iron for at least 3-5 seconds and then apply solder to the area where the pin and wire are touching, NOT the soldering iron tip itself.  This is a little tricky, but hopefully you should get something that looks like this:
    

    orange (rightmost) wire soldered

19. If you like the hook-and-wrap method, you can use it for the remaining two wires.  I’m going to demonstrate a different method that works equally well, especially because we can reach the pins easier.  Let’s grab the red wire next.  Keep the tinned end straight but trim it so it is a similar size to the pin you are going to be soldering it to.
20. Bring the trimmed red wire to the pin.  Lay it on top of the pin so that they’re on top of each other.  Apply heat to BOTH the wire and the pin for at least 3-5 seconds, usually by placing the tip of the iron on one side of the pair where it makes equal contact with both the wire and the pin.  Then apply solder where the two are touching, NOT to the soldering iron itself – this is usually done to the opposite side that the iron is touching.  This is a little tricky, but hopefully you’ll end up with something that looks like this:
    

    solid solder connection on red (2nd from right) wire

21. Repeat the previous two steps for the brown wire, which attaches to the pin above the orange wire to the right of the center divider.  After this, you should have all three wires attached like so: (The colors look a little funny because of lighting – red on left, orange center lower, brown center upper)
22. Next, we need to modify the case to give the USB cable room to exit.  I used the oval area near where you normally look at the LED to check codes.  I cut the metal case with a large pair of diagonal cutters.
23. Now would be a good time to firmly install your NEMU board in the 20×2 header and connect the 4 pin black datalogging connector with wires soldered to ECU pins.
24. Connect the miniUSB->bulkhead cable in your kit to your NEMU board.  For extra safety (i.e. leaving your laptop plugged in and walking off) I generally tie a pretzel knot in the cable immediately before it exits the ECU case so that the knot will absorb any yank or pull.  Use the supplied zip tie to securely attach the USB cable to the case of the ECU.  Once you’ve done this, trim the zip tie for tidiness.
25. If you’re going to be using the extra analog inputs offered by NEMU, repeat the last step with the AuxBox cable.  This cable has a ethernet/phone jack looking RJ45 connector on one end and a small black plastic box on the other.
26. Re-install the case on the ECU.
27. Go to www.nismotronic.com for the lastest software download.
28. Enjoy your product!

These ROM boards are for Nissans that use a 64k program with a 20×2 header.  These boards require TWO 512k chips such as the C2 SST27SF512 chip that we sell or a 27C512.  They require the same ROM image to be burned into both chips.  They do NOT support switching between ROMs – single program only.  These do NOT work with Nissans that have 32k programs such as red-top S13 SR20DET, S13 KA24DE, etc.  These boards can be used with TWO Ostrich 2.0 emulators for realtime tuning.

Known Applications:

• JDM “Zenki” S14a VVTi SR20DET w/ WC ECU
• 95+ USDM Z32 VG30DETT
• 94+ USDM J30 VG30

Pictures:

The Nemu+Nismotronic Tuning Package is a complete, single-vehicle solution. High-speed datalogging, emulation, onboard storage, and advanced custom ROM options: these features are available nowhere else!

All the necessary ingredients for a complete turnkey tuning package are included:

NEMU Emulation and Datalogging Hardware:

• Installs entirely within ECU, uses a single USB connection for logging and Emulation (No need for a consult cable!)
• SUPER fast realtime emulation and logging (Uploads and Downloads)
• 4MB Onboard Logging capacity
• 4 Analog input channels for viewing any 0-5v sensor input (wideband, map sensor, iat, egt, oil pressure)

NismoTronic Tuning Software and User Interface:

• RealTime Tuning and Logging via NEMU RT Boards
• Onboard Logging via NEMU RT Boards
• ADC Inputs for Wideband/IAT/ETC via NEMU RT Boards
• User Definable Live Gauges, Graphing, and Monitor Tables
• AFR Target Table (Target AFR) and Raw Table (Logged AFR)
• AFR Difference Table (Difference in Logged vs Target AFR in percentage)
• User Definable MAF curves! (Create your own custom MAF curve and save it into the MAF Data file to use on multiple tune files with just one click!)
• Intuitive GUI with visual graphing. Tons of quick keys for quickly editing table values. Interactive 2D Graphing.
• Innovate, AEM, PLX, and SLC Pure Wideband Support
• Program Auto Update Feature
• Import/Export Fuel and Ignition tables
• Export Data Logs to CSV format for viewing in other programs (EXCEL, Virtual Dyno)

TunerCode VN5 Advanced ECU Firmware:

• High RPM tuning limit (8012.5 rpm) removed.
• Single-Table Fuel and Timing Maps.
• Choice of soft cut or hard cut rev limits. Launch Control. Overboost rev limiter.
• Soft cut Speed Limit (Can be disabled or set for valet mode)
• Programmable A/C Compressor and radiator Fan controls.
• Knock and Dwell control. Startup fuel and timing.
• Accel, TPS, and CLT Enrichment. Injector size specification.
• Decel Fuel Reduction, Idle fuel/timing, Fuel Cut control
• Enable/Disable: Knock Analysis, Closed Loop O2 Analysis, Long Term Fuel Trim (self-learn), TPS fuel map load column contol, EGR, AIV, O2 Sensor Heater, A/C Compressor, etc.
• Spark cut limiting, in addition to fuel cut limiting.
• Set Launch uses throttle, tach., and gear shift to set launch rev limit
• Programmable Outputs (5 trigger parameters, VVL, NOx, Fans, etc.)

Visual Tour

NEMU Package, in the box (click to enlarge)

Box contents: NEMU Unit, Hardware for installation in ECU, Breakout box and cable for extra inputs/outputs, USB bulkhead cable setup with mounting hardware.

NEMU installed in ECU, with one of our NISSAN2CHIP ROM boards sitting side-by-side for size comparison.

Nismotronic software screenshot

Troubleshooting

(Under construction)

Documentation

(Under construction)

The SocketBooster 1.0 exists to provide active conditioning for signals from our Ostrich2.0 and ChipExtender products.  In some circumstances, the logic levels generated by these devices do not meet the specifications of the target device you are trying to use them in.  The SocketBooster remedies this issue by essentially amplifying and conditioning the signal.  In many cases, the same effect can be achieved by using a short emulation cable, such as the 6″ EMUC2806 we sell.

Ostrich 2.0 Trace Feature with SocketBooster 1.0

The SocketBooster 1.0 interferes with the data trace feature on the Ostrich 2.0 on an electrical level.   However, one of our users reports that there is a fairly simple modification to get everything working again.  We have not verified this ourselves, but several users have reported success with tracing on a 27C32 application and a SocketBooster.

"The mod to get it going is to cut the CS & OE ribbon cable wires from the
O2, and solder them to the 2732A header on the socket booster via a 330R
resistor."

SocketBooster 1.1 revision

We revised the SocketBooster around November 2013 so it could be compatible with the trace feature of the Ostrich 2.0.  All units sold after this time should work without modification.  If you would like to upgrade your unit, please contact us.

Applications

The socket booster is REQUIRED for successful use of the Ostrich 2.0 or Chip Extender with 24-pin applications such as the GM TBI OBD1 C3 1227747 ECUs.

The SocketBooster also seems to help out with a lot of applications that use older Hitachi/Mitsubishi processors such as DSM, 8 bit Nissan Z31/Z32/R32, etc.  ECUs of this range are typically in the 84-91 year range.

Signs of Issues

The typical signs that your application may require a SocketBooster are intermittent ECM shutdowns, odd behavior, odd datalogging results, etc. Intermittent (or consistent) flaky behavior.

Installation and Use

The Socket Booster has a single switch on it which controls how the device operates.  The SocketBooster can either boost signals passing straight through it (28 pin setting) or act as a 24->28 pin converter (like the G2 we also sell) with the switch in the 24 pin position.  Although we do NOT recommend this, you can solder a SocketBooster directly into a 24 pin ECM by trimming the two pins closest to the switch and setting the switch to the 24 pin setting.

This is the documentation for the Nissan Boards.  At this point, there are only one version of the boards, 1.1nm  As future revisions to the board are produced, this page will be updated.

Applications

These boards are designed for S13 and B13 applications.  They will NOT work with S14a ECUs that have a 20×2 pin header.  They will not work with late S14/N14/etc. ECUs that have a 40×1 header. Known good applications:

S13 Silvia RWD “Red top” SR20DET (i.e. 62, E5, etc.) 240 swaps, etc.

S13 Silvia RWD “Black top” SR20DET NON VVTI (VVTI motors not supported) 240SX, etc.

S13 240SX KA24DE twin cam engine US Engine

B13 Sentra FWD SR20DE Sentra, etc.

U13 Bluebird SR20DET

About the Board Hardware

The 20×2 Nissan ROM board has two 28 pin sockets for an EPROM such as a 27SF512 or 27C256.  These are not “even-odd” style boards – chips installed in this board should always have identical programs unless you REALLY know what you are doing.  You will need to buy a ROM burner separately if you do not already have one – this board cannot program chips.

You can use two Ostriches with this board.  Insert each Ostrich like it was an EPROM.  Make sure JROM is not installed (see below for more) or you may have issues with addressing and Ostriches.  You will need a 5.x version of TunerPro RT to have native dual Ostrich support.  You can accomplish the same thing using TunerPro 4.x by also using EmUtility (available from tunerpro.net in the utilities section) to run one Ostrich in emulation mode while TunerPro natively runs the other Ostrich.

Switching and JROM

As previously mentioned, the 20×2 board allows the use of two programs with near instantaneous realtime switching.  The JROM is used to change between two programs when using 512k chips (i.e. 27SF512 or 27C512).  By default, the adapter uses a 32k program from 08000h to 0FFFFh.  When JROM is present, the adapter uses the 32k program from 00000h to 07FFFh.  You can mount an external switch for the jumper if you like.  This link has more information about programming multiple programs and offsets.

Software support

This board has no copy protection that would prevent you using it with a particular software package.  The technical answer to “software support” is to say that it will work with any software capable or providing a Nissan binary ROM file.  Software I have tested these boards with:

• Tuner Pro RT ( www.tunerpro.net )
• 925style.com ROM Editor ( ask google “925style ROM editor” – original site is down)
• Nistune

Just to reiterate – any software that can output a binary file will probably work fine with these boards.

Installation

Installation of the Nissan 20×2 boards can be quite tricky.  A proper de-soldering iron is required for good results.

1. Remove both the top and bottom case from the ECU
2. De-solder all 40 pins of the 20×2 connector.  remember, a clean de-soldering job is critical to this working correctly.  Be careful not to overheat and burn any traces as this can be easy to do.  When you are done, it should look something like this:
3. Place the installed pin header in the 20×2 header so that the “notch” in the header faces towards the blue ECU connector:
4. Solder the 20×2 header in place carefully.  Again, remember clean, accurate soldering is critical for this product to work correctly:
5. Find the jumper marked “CJ1”  – you will need to remove it and move it to position “CJ2”  as this enables the use of the ROM board.  (Putting the jumper back to CJ1 will enable the use of the stock program.)  Be careful when doing this.  The use of two soldering irons, a soldering iron and de-soldering iron or best yet – a set of SMD tweezers will make things much easier.  If you damage the jumper removing it, do not worry – you can use a small piece of wire or a paperclip instead.  (Trim any excess wire / paperclip if you use this method)
6. Finally, slide the 20×2 board onto the installed header:

Types of Nissan Computer

Trivially chippable Nissans fall into several categories:

28 Pin EPROM (VG30DETT 300ZX Twin turbo, KA24E 240SX, RB26DETT R32 Skyline GTR, …) – If you see a 28 pin EPROM inside the ECU, this is your application.  Ostrich 2.0 works in almost all cases, but many of these applications will require a SocketBooster.

20×2 ROM Board “S13” (SR20DET Silvia/240, SR20DE Sentra, SR20DET GTiR, etc.) If you see a spot on the edge of the circuit board with two rows of 20 pins, this is probably the application.  (also see below S14a)  The Nissan 20×2 Adapter board is intended for this generation.  Two Ostrich emulators can be used for realtime emulation.

20×2 ROM Board “S14a” (SR20DET “black top” VVTI, 95-97 “B14” Sentra, etc.) If you see a spot on the edge of the circuit board with two rows of 20 pins, this is probably the application.  (also see above S13) These are not supported at this time.  Future hardware may add support.

40×1 ROM Board (Late model sentra, 240?) If you see a single, extremely long row of pins that are very closely spaced together, this is your application.  These are not supported at this time.  Future hardware may add support.

Many Nissan ECUs are not trivially chippable (RB25 Neo, R33 Skyline, R34 Skyline, 350Z, …)

Software

TunerPro RT has definitions for most S13/B13 platforms.

925style ROM editor supports most JDM ECUs.  I’ve used sucessfully with S13 SR20DET and R32 GTR Skyline.  It isn’t officially available anymore but you can find it easily with google.

CROME is compatible with certain Nissan ROMs, particularly those used in S13 based vehicles.

Download TunerPro here

Originally written to modify GM and Ford binaries, the uniqueness of TunerPro is its ability to have Definitions. While this adds a slight layer of complexity to the end user, the definition files (XDF) instruct TunerPro as to where tables and variables reside within the binary it is opening, allowing TunerPro to be compatible with virtually any binary.

Currently definitions are available for the following Vehicles at least as of 9/30/08, more being added regular (see http://www.tunerpro.net website for all the latest)::

General Motors

Ford (requires v4.13 or higher)

Subaru (Requires v4.13 or higher)

Nissan

Porsche (Motronic)

DSM (Eagle/Mitsubishi)

Renault

Registration

You will be emailed a key file to register to the address provided with your order.  In order to do this, we need your name, address, phone number and CORRECT EMAIL.  Make sure you can check the email address you provide with your order as this is where we will send your key.  Be sure to check any spam filters.  We do not need a key or any other information from you for TunerPro RT – we simply need a valid email address.