The Honda EngineSim was introduced to allow interactive bench testing of Honda ECUs.  It supplies the signals from the distributor and many sensors so that an ECU can be fooled into thinking it has a functioning, running engine connected when it is safely on the bench.  Controls are simple: on/off switches and knobs to adjust values up and down.  Outputs like injectors, ignition control module (ICM) and solenoids can be observed via LEDs.  This provides a means for testing ECUs outside of a vehicle and observing many common faults such as damaged injector drivers, fuel pump drivers and distributor VR sensor amplifier damage.  Note: none of the sim versions can simulate idle air control valve behavior well enough to avoid a Code 14.  This limitation is present in all hardware versions.  (There is a bin available for download which has the code disabled to use for testing.)

All 3 versions of the Engine Sim are covered on this page.  Information on harnesses is provided for each revision.

The current version will NOT be available for purchase on the Moates.net website.  It is available for purchase directly from its creator, Dave Blundell (your friendly Moates Tech support) and will be sold directly from his company.  At this time, PayPal is the only accepted method of payment, but you can use a credit card through paypal.  Units will be available for $150+ship as pictured WITHOUT A HARNESS OR POWER ADAPTER.  There will be $10 flat fee for USPS shipping for US residents.  USPS and DHL available for international – please email for a quote with your address.   (Sold out!  Thank you everyone!)

Moving forward, all sales will be handled through Burton Racing and HA Motorsports who have stock of current models available, including with a harness and power adapter. ( as of 1/1/2022 )

Version 3 – 2019 Production

The third revision of the Honda Engine sim was introduced January 2019.  It is supplied without a power supply or harness.  It has terminal block connections suitable for building a harness using a harness pigtail.  Some of the small annoyances of earlier versions such as injector LEDs that dimly glow when the injector is off have been fixed but it is largely the same unit with an increased number of channels compared to earlier models.  Picture for identification purposes: (note: pre-production prototype pictured.  production PCBs may vary in color)

Sim V3 Power Supply

The Sim v3 is supplied without a power supply.  The sim has a center-positive 2.1mm barrel jack for power.  Alternatively, wires can be soldered to “CONST PWR” and “GND” instead of the barrel jack.  There is not a single “right” power adapter for this – you could even use a variable voltage supply to investigate behavior of the ECU under different power conditions.  In addition to many “wall wart” style adapters, the 12V rail of an AT/ATX power supply (yellow + black color wires typically) is suitable.

Power supplied to the sim will be supplied to the ECU, through a diode and PTC fuse.  This means that whatever voltage coming in will go out to the ECU, minus 0.6V or so forward voltage (Vf) for a silicon protection diode.  i.e. 15V in, 14.4V supply to ECU or 12.0V in, 11.4V supply to ECU.  You will make the protection circuitry on the sim unhappy (and hot) supplying more than 17V but unregulated / marginally regulated supplies will work ok – the sim isn’t terribly picky about stable voltage.  Maximum current draw for an ECU and all LEDs lit up simultaneously (unlikely scenario) was around 680ma.  400-500ma is a more realistic current draw for sizing purposes.

The PTC fuse on the sim is a thermal fuse.  As current goes through it, it gets warmer.  As it gets warmer, it’s resistance increases.  More power = more heat.  Eventually, the PTC fuse will enter a thermal runaway scenario where it cuts off.  If you connect an ECU that is shorted out or otherwise drawing an excessive amount of power, you will see the sim “shut down” or all the lights get really dim except for the main power LED that remains lit whenever power is connected to the unit.

Sim V3 Wire Harness

The Sim V3 is supplied without a harness – you must construct your own.  You will need a set of plugs from a 92-95 Honda Civic, Accord, Prelude, etc.  It is recommended but not required to strip the connectors down to only the wires to be connected to the sim, removing any pins that will be unused.  In some cases, it may be necessary to add wires to the harness for all Engine Sim functions.  The recommended pins in the harness to use: (image stolen from http://www.ff-squad.com Tech Library, thanks Katman!)

A Plug with wires: (wire colors will vary!)

B Plug with wires: (wire colors will vary!)

D Plug with wires: (wire colors will vary!)

After the connectors have been prepared, each wire needs to be stripped before inserting into the Engine Sim connectors:

It’s helpful if the wires are approximately the right length to go where they need to.  Putting them next to the Sim can help with this:

Insert each wire and turn the screw terminal clockwise to squeeze each wire tightly enough that it does not come out when you gently tug on it.

(pic?)

Final result: all wires connected to screw terminals and securely screwed down:

Version 2.0 -DISCONTINUED

The second revision of the Honda Engine sim was offered with a connector and harness that could be disconnected and a 12V 1A wall wart power supply.  This was sold directly through Moates.net.  No spare parts are available for this.  This was discontinued due to poor harness availability and unreliable wiring suppliers.  Warranty service is no longer offered.  We also are making the harness documentation available so that repairs to existing units can be made.  Picture for identification purposes:

Harness documentation: Engine Simulator Diagram V2

Plastic connector for harness is AMP/Tyco 102387-6  Pins for black sim connector (102387-6) are AMP/Tyco 87523-6.  Both are available from usual electronic parts distributors.

Version 1.0 – DISCONTINUED

The original Honda Engine Sim was offered with the harness hard-wired to the unit and a wall wart power adapter.  This was sold directly by Moates.net.  No spare parts are available for this.  This unit was discontinued in favor of version 2 with a separate harness.  Warranty service is no longer offered.  These pictures are offered for identification purposes:

While it may look simple, getting the Honda logging cables we sell to work with CROME can be quite challenging.  This document aims to provide troubleshooting steps to ensure you get up and running.  Drivers and ports on your laptop, CROME settings, chip contents and ECU hardware all come into play.  “HULOG” and “Hondalog” will be used interchangeably in this document to mean the FTDI based cables and adapters we have sold.

ECU Hardware Preparation

Three things must be done to your ECU for the Hondalog to work:

1. A 4 pin male header must be installed (“CN2” in most cases).  This occupies pins 1 – 4 of a 5 pin header presen on the ECU.
2. A jumper that controls logging must be removed.  This is J12 on US/Euro “big case” ECUs and J4 on JDM “small case” ECUs.  Failure to remove this jumper will prevent proper communication.
3. The ECU must be chipped!  As of writing (June 2016) there are no programs available that will log with stock ECU programs.  You must chip the ECU in order to change the way it communicates.

Drivers and Ports on Your Laptop

The Hondalog is a USB -> TTL converter that looks like a legacy serial port called a COM port to your computer. Your computer talks to it like it is a serial communications port. It uses either the FTDI FT232R or FT232A (old versions only) chips. Either way, all models use the FTDI drivers. If you are running Windows 98, 2000 or XP you probably want to use these drivers. If you are using Vista, you may want to consider using the latest drivers published by FTDI, which you can find here.  If you are running W7, W8, W8.1 or W10, chances are you are running the latest WHQL drivers Windows could download off the internet.  Most of the time, the latest WHQL drivers will work fantastic but alternate older versions of the VCP Driver are available from http://www.ftdichip.com

The first step towards getting your Hondalog working is to get it to appear as a COM port in device manager. Make sure your cable is plugged in to one of your computer’s USB ports.  To open device manager, you can usually right click on My Computer (either on desktop or in start menu) and then choose properties. Then click the hardware tab, then click the “Device Manager” button. Give it a few seconds to start, especially on older computers. Once you have device manager open, scroll down and click on the “Ports” section. You may see a few ports built in to your computer listed. Plug in the Hondalog adapter. You should see an addition COM port appear labeled “USB Serial Device” which is your Hondalog cable.  If you have more than one or you aren’t sure which belongs to your cable, unplug and re-plug the cable.  You should see a COM port appear and disappear along with the cable being plugged in.

If this does not happen:

1. A device with a yellow exclamation mark next to it has a problem. You can click properties to find out more information, but Windows generally doesn’t give you very useful information. Most of the time, a device in this state has driver issues. Try reloading the drivers.
2. If you get a “Unknown Device” with a yellow exclamation mark that appears elsewhere, you probably do not have any drivers installed.  Try reloading the drivers.
3. If you get a red “x” by the icon for your device, you have disabled the device. Right click on the device and select “enable” to restore it to functioning.
4. If you are still having trouble, take a look at this guide which goes into a little more detail about how to resolve USB issues.
5. You can also contact Moates support.  Make sure you have an internet connection and your laptop+cable handy when you call please.

If you have gotten this far, I am going to assume your Hondalog is connected to your computer and it is being correctly detected as a COM port. I am going to assume that your Hondalog is on COM3 for the remainder of this document. You need to substitute the port that your device uses if it is not COM3!

(Note: If your device grabs a COM port greater than 16, some software seems to struggle. In fact, some software struggles with a port above 8! Bottom line: if you are having trouble and your device uses a COM port greater than 8, right click on the device in device manager, select properties and then advanced settings to change the COM port to an available port less than or equal to 8 before continuing.)

Configure CROME

CROME free does not log.  CROME Pro/Dealer is required.  We do not sell it – contact xenocron.com or tunewithcrome.com if you require a license.

CROME Pro does not automatically do anything.  You need to go into its settings and tell it three important things for logging to work:

1. Which COM port it should use to communicate with the ECU
2. How fast it communicates (Baud Rate)
3. Which protocol (language) it should try to speak.

You should know the answer to #1 from your trip through device manager above.

As for #2, baud rate should always be 38400 unless you know better, in which case you can ignore this advice.

Number 3 gets trickier.   The selection here must match the contents of your chip!

• As a rule of thumb, the QuickDLRTP.js and addDatalogging.js scripts included with CROME need the QD2 protocol.
• As a rule of thumb, the CROME “Gold” ROM uses the QD3 protocool.
• Non-Pro/Dealer versions of CROME sometimes fail to apply the datalogging scripts properly.  Why?  I don’t know.  Perhaps to be tricky?  Beware of doing this!
• Beware! Some versions of the datalogging javascript make changes to how the ROM operates for fuel/ign as well as just adding logging.  Why?  I don’t know.  Double check your tune after applying any scripts.
• There have been several versions of the datalogging scripts which set the ROM up for logging.  It is often hard to tell which is which because there is little or no version control and the scripts are sometimes encrypted/obfuscated.  Unfortunately, it matters which version is present in a ROM.
• DIFFERENT VERSIONS OF CROME EXPECT DIFFERENT SCRIPT VERSIONS!  Do NOT use scripts from prior versions of CROME.  Be prepared to start with a stock ROM and re-apply the logging scripts in order to get logging working with a current/new version of CROME.  Even if your ROM once worked with the QD2 protocol and CROME is configured for a QD2 protocol now does not mean it will work now.
• There have been totally broken versions of CROME.  Make sure you are using an up to date version and check on the pgmfi.org forums to make sure other users are having success with the version you are using.

***IMPORTANT!!!  IT DOES NOT MATTER WHICH PROTOCOL YOU WANT TO USE.  IT MATTERS WHICH ONE IS INSTALLED IN THE CHIP/OSTRICH***  If you did not make your chip, you need to talk to the person who did to find out what they did.  If the adddatalogging.js plugin was not installed, you’re not logging.  Bottom line: you need to know what is in your chip to know what to select.  The end.

ROM / BIN Modifications

As noted above in the section on configuring a protocol, CROME cannot speak to a factory Honda bin.  They do not speak the same language.  If you are using an unchipped ECU, it must be chipped.  If you are using a chipped ECU, these instructions apply equally to those using a physical chip and an Ostrich (or even a Demon/Demon II).  Specific modifications (in the form of the AddDatalogging.js, etc. scripts in CROME) are needed to prepare a ROM to communicate with CROME.

Again, IT IS IMPERATIVE THAT THE ROM YOU ARE USING BE MODIFIED WITH A COMPATIBLE DATALOGGING PLUG-IN!  DO NOT ASSUME THAT YOUR BIN HAS THE RIGHT SOFTWARE BECAUSE IT WORKED WITH AN EARLIER VERSION OF CROME!!!

If you aren’t sure, start with a stock bin, re-apply the logging patches, remove the checksum and bring over your changes from the old tune.

Introduction / Identification

Ports and Connectivity

Software Support

As of 5/5/2014 software support is as follows:

Neptune: Full emulation+data+onboard (stable)
ecTune: Emulation+data (stable)
Crome: Emulation+data (some versions)

Please note that each Demon has a serial number – NepTune and eCtune both license a single copy of the software to a single Demon.  The exact procedure for this is different for each software package.

Datalogging Memory

Demon II units have 4Mbyte (32Mbit) memory.  This is enough for several hours of logging at full speed on all channels, with compression turned on.

Switching Between Software

You can now more easily switch among the different applications using our Config Utility for resetting the state of your Demon.

Indicator Lights

Light behavior on the Demon II is the same as the 1.9+ Demon firmware.

The red LED serves as a hardware status indicator and/or busy light.

• Red light on solid = not receiving power from the ECU: physical connection issue to ECU
• Red LED will blink when logging packets are being captured

The green LED is more of a data packet and status indicator light.  It typically behaves as follows:

• Solid green light when the Demon is powered on and all systems are go but no packets are being received
• Green light is off when the device is busy OR Demon is powered off
• Fast green blinks mean the Demon is receiving good datalogging packets from the ECU.

Troubleshooting:

• Red light onwith USB plugged in means the Demon is NOT receiving power from the ECU.
  • You will only see this condition when the Demon is being powered by USB
  • Check 28 pin socket bridge pins and connection
  • Check ECU CN2 – 4 pin port connection.  This is REQUIRED for proper Demon operation
• Green light off means no power to ECU.  Red on / green off is expected with no power.
• No lights at all when USB is plugged in generally is a fault condition.
  • Try removing the Demon from the ECU.  If the Red light comes on, check the chipping job and physical connections between the Demon and the ECU

Add C49 & C50 and C91 & C92 on back

C49 & C50 –> .004UF (Digikey part number 399-1230-1-nd )

C91 & C92 –> .00001UF ( digikey Part Number 399-1192-1-nd )

Add the 74hc373 SMD chip. (MFG part# SN74HC373NSR, Digi-Key Part Number 296-8310-1-ND)

Add a 29C256 eprom with bin written to it.

For RTP/Datalogging w/ Crome remove J4 on front.

Solder in a 4 pin header (snappable header pins 1×40 work GREAT for this and are VERY cheap)

All info is from the following threads:

http://forum.pgmfi.org/viewtopic.php?t=3112&highlight=chipping+jdm+computers

Special thanks to all the contributors of the above thread and katman for doing the pics in the first place… We love you katman

http://forum.pgmfi.org/viewtopic.php?t=4005&highlight=chipping+jdm+computers

Thanks to infotechplus for pics and info on C49,C50,C91,C92

Introduction / Identification

Software Support

As of 11/03/09 software support is as follows:
Neptune: Full emulation+data+onboard (release)
ecTune: Emulation+data (release)
Crome: Emulation+data (beta)
Please note that each Demon has a serial number – NepTune and eCtune both license a single copy of the software to a single Demon.  The exact procedure for this is different for each software package.

Datalogging Memory

The first production runs of Demons have 1 Mbyte memory for storing datalogging.  Current (starting around April 2010) production units have 4Mbyte memory.  Early production units can have their memory upgraded.  If you are interested in this service, purchase the Install Service item and note in the “Comments” field of your order that you would like the Demon memory upgrade.  You’ll have to send your Demon back to us – turnaround time is normally about 2 weeks.

Switching Between Software

You can now more easily switch among the different applications using our Config Utility for resetting the state of your Demon.

Indicator Lights (1.8 and older firmware)

The Demon has two LEDs to indicate its status, one red and one green.

The red LED serves as a hardware status indicator and/or busy light.  It can come on when:

• Demon is currently processing a command (upload/download/etc)
• Poor / nonexistent connection between Demon and ECU 28 pin socket.  (usual cause: faulty installation)
• Poor / nonexistent connection between Demon and ECU CN2 port.  (usual cause: cabling, cable backwards, faulty installation)
• Demon is powered via USB but there is no power to ECU
• NEPTUNE RTP ONLY: No serial communication between ECU and Demon
• Red LED will blink when onboard packets are being stored to memory

The green LED is more of a data packet and status indicator light.  It typically behaves as follows:

• Lights up solid green when the Demon is powered on
• Blinks when the Demon is communicating with the ECU (assuming data packets are configured correctly)
  • Fast blinking means data is flowing properly from ECU to Demon via CN2
  • Slow blinking likely means data timeout / incorrect connection/configuration

Indicator Lights (1.9 and newer firmware)

Light behavior has been changed in the new firmware.

The red LED serves as a hardware status indicator and/or busy light.

• Red light on solid = not receiving power from the ECU: physical connection issue to ECU
• Red LED will blink when logging packets are being captured

The green LED is more of a data packet and status indicator light.  It typically behaves as follows:

• Solid green light when the Demon is powered on and all systems are go but no packets are being received
• Green light is off when the device is busy OR Demon is powered off
• Fast green blinks mean the Demon is receiving good datalogging packets from the ECU.

Troubleshooting:

• Red light onwith USB plugged in means the Demon is NOT receiving power from the ECU.
  • You will only see this condition when the Demon is being powered by USB
  • Check 28 pin socket bridge pins and connection
  • Check ECU CN2 – 4 pin port connection.  This is REQUIRED for proper Demon operation
• Green light off means no power to ECU.  Red on / green off is expected with no power.
• No lights at all when USB is plugged in generally is a fault condition.
  • Try removing the Demon from the ECU.  If the Red light comes on, check the chipping job and physical connections between the Demon and the ECU

ECU Chipping

You need to add a few additional components to the original Honda ECU. It requires some soldering skills and should not be attempted unless you have soldered before. (Chances are you know someone with soldering skills that could help you). Here is a picture of the P28 ECU that I chipped, before any of the parts were put in:

Before you can solder the parts in, you will need to de-solder the holes in the circuit board since they come filled with solder from the factory. You can buy a “solder sucker” to do the job, however unless you get a nice one (expensive) they don’t really work well in my opinion. The cheap and easy solution is to buy some solder braid. It’s just braided copper. Simply place it over the hole to be de-soldered, and place the soldering iron on top of the braid. It will then wick up the solder into the braid. It’s available at radioshack:

You’ll want to use a decent quality soldering iron to get the job done nicely. The important thing is to not use too much heat, and also make sure the iron has a fine tip on it. I’m using a standard Weller iron:

Here is what it should look like after the board has been de-soldered:

The parts that need to be added are boxed in with a dashed white line. The parts consist of (2) .1uF ceramic capacitors, (1) 1k resistor, (1) wire jumper (simply a piece of wire…I used a lead of the resistor), (1) 74HC373 chip, and (1) 29C256 chip (thats the EPROM). The resistor and capacitors have no polarity, so you don’t have to worry about installing them backwards. The 74HC373 chip does have a polarity. Pin 1 will be on the left side of the pic (you’ll see in detail later one). The same is true for the EPROM chip. Since it would be impossible to burn a chip and have the tune be perfect, it becomes obvious that you don’t want to solder the chip in. Instead, use a socket so that it can be removed. You have two options: for less than $1, you can get a standard DIP socket. The problem is these are very hard to insert and remove the chips since there are 28 pins (it requires a lot of force and is hard to grip the chip). Your second option would be a ZIF (Zero Insertion Force) socket, which costs less than $10. It is a socket that has a lever: pull up the lever, set the chip in/lift it out, and flip the lever back – VERY nice to have since you’ll be doing this many times while tuning. Be careful when ordering the ZIF socket, as many of them are too large to fit on the board without running into things. The first ZIF I bought was made by Aries, and it was a very quality piece, however, it was too large and bulky to fit without a lot of modification to other components on the board. I ended up ordering a different one that was much more compact. I am unaware of the brand, however it is blue and is referred to as a low-profile ZIF. The only problem was that the lever end of it was in the way of the 74HC373. The easy solution is to buy a standard DIP socket as mentioned above. Solder this onto the board. Then, stack the ZIF onto this socket, which raises the ZIF away from the board enough to clear the surrounding parts. This setup worked very well for me. The following picture shows the too-big-to-fit ZIF in the back-left, the low-profile ZIF in the front left, and the DIP socket on the right:

The ZIF socket stacked on the DIP socket for added height:

And finally, a couple of pics with all of the parts installed:

I ordered most of my parts from www.jdr.com except for the low-profile ZIF socket and DIP socket, which I obtained from www.jameco.com. The following table containse the exact part numbers that I ordered. You’ll notice that I ordered two EPROMS. This way, it will be easier to burn one while the other is installed.

Additionally, I have recently located all of the parts you will need from one source. DigiKey is where you can find them. Their inventory selection can be overwhelming, so here are the part numbers you will want:

And for a final update to this page, I’d like to add that you can find ALL of the necessary chipping parts at moates.net. It is a great deal in my opinion, and you’re guaranteed to get the correct parts the first time around. It’s under the name of “Honda ECU Chipping Kit”.

There are two tools available for datalogging on Honda ECUs from www.moates.net and they include the HULOG and the HondaLog.

HULOG: The HULOG comes in a plastic enclosure and ONLY requires a pin swap if it is an older unit. All the new units come with 1:1 connector pinning, so will differ from the pictures shown in that no pin swap is required or will be present on the extension cable. It can be mounted externally or internally, depending on whether you want to pass the 4-pin header cable or a USB cable out of your ECU.

HondaLog: The HondaLog can be mounted directly to the ECU with no interconnecting cable It can also be mounted at the end of a 4-pin tether cable. Either way, no pin swap is required (note color of wires and their order in the pictures). The unit is shipped with two pinning options in terms of the attachment header. It also comes with a piece of shrink-wrap tubing in case you want to ‘wrap that rascal’ when you’re done. Either way, it goes to your USB cable and PC on the other end.

Pictures are shown below for the two units. The installation header is a 4-pin latching unit, and comes with the moates.net Honda Chipping Kits. You can alternatively use a 4-pin 0.025″ square-post breakaway header. Please take note of the directionality of the latch on the interconnecting cable though, since that is critical.

HULOG Pictures

HondaLog Pictures



]]> https://support.moates.net/huloghondalog-installation/feed/ 0 https://support.moates.net/honda-tuning-with-crome/ https://support.moates.net/honda-tuning-with-crome/#respond Mon, 10 May 2010 05:31:23 +0000 http://support.moates.net/?p=848 Although quite outdated, this is a very nice PDF tutorial written up by Darren Kattan. Check it out by clicking HERE

This article was accurate as of the time it was written (2009) but things may have changed.  At Moates.net, we rely on information from our users about what works and what doesn’t work.  Please investigate on PGMFI.org and elsewhere to confirm the information you find here!  Things may have changed and we may not be in the loop.

Unsupported Vehicles

• V6 Hondas have very limited hardware and software support
• K-series Hondas have no support from hardware we make at this time
• 2001+ non-K series Hondas (D17, R18, etc.) have no support from hardware we make at this time
• Automatic Hondas have very limited support. Very little has been done with automatic transmission controls and many tuning packages eliminate the code used to control auto transmissions.

Unsupported ECUs

• Anything pre-1988 probably lacks spark control. There isn’t much if anything available software-wise for these ECUs. You might find 24 or 28 pin EPROMs inside, you might not. Your mileage may vary.
• 1988-1991 DPFI (Dual Point Fuel Injection – Throttle Body Injection) ECUs have zero software support. 90-91 models can be chipped like an OBD1 ECU hardware-wise, but that doesn’t solve the software issue.
• 1988-1989 Civic Si (PM6) and 1988-1991 CRX HF ECU (PM8) require a daughterboard we do not sell in order to be chipped. Use a 90-91 ECU on these model years.
• 1992-1995 JDM GSR Automatic ECUs (hardware design makes chipping them impossible. Auto JDM P30s are ok)
• 1996-2001 ECUs (OBD II – hardware design makes chipping very difficult to impossible, requires surface mount soldering tools and chips no longer available on the market.)
• Prelude ECUs (trivially chippable, but unless you are going to develop the software support, it doesn’t currently exist)
• V6 ECUs from Legend (early models can be trivially chipped, but unless you are going to develop the software support, it doesn’t currently exist)
• NSX ECUs (early models can be trivially chipped, but unless you are going to develop the software support, it doesn’t currently exist)
• Basically any ECU other than an Integra or Civic ECU is not well-supported

This information was last updated 2/4/09 by Dave Blundell.

The Honda chip kit contains all the components necessary to put a chip in your OBD I Honda ECU.

There are two varieties of this kit, the USDM and JDM versions. JDM ECUs are smaller square ECUs that require surface mount components. The USDM ECUs are rectangular and use standard thru-hole components.

This kit also comes with a replacement capacitor for the 200uF cap that is known to go bad in these older ECUs.

Compatibility

This kit is compatible with the following ECUs:

• P28
• P30
• P72
• P75
• P05
• P06
• P08

Overview

The HuLog, HondaLog, and Xtreme HuLog are USB datalogging adapters that are used to datalog Honda ECUs.

Functionally the devices are identical, however the HuLog/Xtreme HuLog come in ABS plastic enclosures for protection.

Also, the Xtreme HuLog will retain its COM port assignment regardless of what USB port is used.

Tips and Tricks

To achieve maximum performance out of this device (and all Moates devices) we recommend setting the latency timer to 1 ms. This can be changed in Windows XP by using the following procedure:

1. Control Panel
2. System
3. Hardware
4. Device Manager
5. Ports (COM and LPT)
6. USB Serial Port (COMx)
7. Port Settings
8. Advanced
9. Latency Timer

Compatibility

The HondaLog/HuLog is compatible with:

• CROME Pro
• eCtune
• Neptune

How to Buy

Please visit the Xtreme HuLog’s page in our website here

3 Basic rules for using HULOG/Hondalog

1. ECU Must be chipped.  Properly.  Software must be installed in the chip WHICH MATCHES THE SOFTWARE ON YOUR PC.  Different versions of software on the PC can require different modifications to bin/chip.  Yes, upgrading your PC software can break logging until you “upgrade” the software in your chip, too.
2. There is no plug n play for this stuff.  Even if the drivers are installed automatically by Windows, software on your PC MUST BE CONFIGURED MANUALLY to match the hardware you are using and the modifications done to the bin/chip.  There are several incompatible options and you must have the SAME on both the chip and your PC.
3. J12 (US/EU/big case) or J4 (JDM/small case) is required to be removed for all known aftermarket software

Hardware Supported

Currently, the Demon 2 is the only supported hardware for Neptune.  We sell the Demon2+Neptune RTP setup.

Discontinued Hardware

If you have discontinued hardware, you can get current production hardware (Demon2) for half off with our trade-in program.  More details here.

The Demon (or “Demon 1”) is no longer in production and has been replaced by the Demon2.

Demon1 hardware

The original Neptune RTP board was designed by Moates.  It is no longer in production and has been replaced by the Demon2.

Original Neptune RTP Hardware

The reason we are able to do this, is because when Honda designed their ECUs, the boards for the P05, P06, P28, etc were basically all identical. For the ECUs like the P05 and P06 that did not require VTEC, the components that are used for VTEC functionality were simply not installed.

Thanks to the guidance of the forums on PGMFI.org, we were able to collect these missing components, organize them into kits and sell them to you.

You can convert the following ECUs to VTEC:

• P05
• P06
• P75

The first step in the process is to identify the board in your ECU. In these ECUs, the only factors that affect board revision is the time that the ECU was produce. Meaning that just because you have a P06 doesn’t mean you’ll necessarily have a particular board.

First, identify your ECU to find out what board you have.

It will be one of the following. Clicking these will bring you to their respective page on our online store.

• 11F0
• 1720
• 1980

Your kit will come with a handful of components as well as a card with pictures that indicates the place to install the components. Sometimes this isn’t enough. Here is a better picture:

1720 Conversion

1720: VTEC Conversion

1. Verify that you have an Automatic. You will know if there are resistors in RP17 and RP18 (next to the EEPROM)
2. Remove RP17 and RP18
3. Replace RP18 with a jumper. (The one you removed from J12 usually works well, or just a paperclip)

When you are done, the resistors should look like this:

Manual ECU Resistor Arrangement

Honda ECUs have a Diagnostic Generation, Model and a Board Revision.

The diagnostic generations are OBD 0, OBD I, and OBD II.

Examples of the model are  P28, P72, etc.

The board revisions are 1980, 11F0, and 1720.

Diagnostic Generation (OBD 0, OBD I, OBD IIa/b)

Every generation

From top to bottom:

Knowing the generation of your ECU is extremely important. For a P28 it is easy because the P28 was only made for OBD I vehicles, however Integra ECUs like the P72 and P75 have both OBD I and OBD II variants. Be weary of this when you are purchasing an ECU online, an OBD II ECU is basically worthless.

Model (P28/P72/etc)

Side view of P28

Just because you have an OBD 0 or OBD I ECU doesn’t necessarily mean that you’ll be able to just up and tune. Take a look at the side of your ECU, you’ll see 37820-PXX-XXX. The numbers following the P, like P28 or P30 are very important. Here are some things to note about the most common variants:

• P05 – Civic CX – Most basic supported ECU. Doesn’t have O2 Heater circuit, disable this to prevent CEL
• P06 – Civic DX – Same as P05 but has heater circuit
• P08 – JDM Civic – Same as P06, but has VTEC
• P28 –  Civic Ex/Si – The standard issue tuning ECU.
• P30 – Del Sol VTEC – Same as P28 but has a Knock Board
• P72 – Same as P30 but with IAB control
• P75 – Same as P72 but with no Knock Board or VTEC control

Board Revision

The only reason that the board revision is typically of interest is when you are attempting to add components like a VTEC conversion kit.

The board revision can be found silkscreened onto your ECU:

This is a 11F0 board

USDM/JDM

The only time you need to worry about whether your ECU is UDSM or JDM is when selecting which chip kit to purchase. JDM ECUs require slightly different chips than their USDM counterparts, so make sure you select the right one when you order.

USDM (Rectangular)

Only certain Hondas can be tuned using our hardware. In short, these are any vehicles that run a B, D, H, or F (Accord) series engine with a distributor and can run an OBD I ECU. Whether they accept these ECUs natively or via an OBD II to OBD I or OBD0 to OBD I conversion harness makes no difference.

Some of the OBD0 (pre-92) vehicles can be chipped and tuned natively, but the OBD I software tools are so much more advanced and user friendly that it is worth considering converting these vehicles to OBD1 with a conversion harness when possible.

If you have a 1996-2001 Honda, you will need to remove your stock OBD2 ECU and plug-in a supported OBD I ECU via a conversion harness. Please make sure you order the appropriate harness for your car as different model years used different connectors.

Supported Vehicles

• 1992-2000 Civic (1996-2000 Civics require OBD2-OBD1 conversion harness, use 92-95 OBD1 ECU)
• 1992-2001 Integra (1996-2001 Integras require OBD2-OBD1 conversion harness, use OBD1 ECU)
• 1992-2001 Prelude/Accord (1996-2001 Preludes require OBD2-OBD1 conversion harness, requires Integra or Civic OBD1 ECU swap, )
• 1988-1991 Civic/CRX Si-HF or swapped cars (can use OBD1 ECU and OBD1 tools with OBD1/OBD2 distributor swap and conversion harness)
• 1988-1991 Integra/CR-X/Civic with B16A swap (requires PR3/PW0 ECUs to use as OBD0 Vtec)
• 1990-1991 Civic/CRX Si D16A6 (will have PM6 ECU, ready to use as OBD0 non-vtec)
• 1988-1989 Civic/CRX Si, 1988-1991 CRX HF (requires use of a 90-91 ECU to use as OBD0 non-vtec)

Supported ECUs

• 1992-1995 Civic (P05 | P06 | P08 | P28)
• 1994-1995 Del Sol VTEC (P30)
• 1992-1995 Integra GS-R (P61, P72)
• 1992-1995 Integra RS/LS/GS/SE (PR4 | P74 | P75)
• 1992-1995 JDM Civic, Integra, Del Sol, etc. (P30, P72, P54, P08, etc. small square case. Place note in order!!! JDM ECUs require different parts than USDM)
• Chippable OBD-0 ECUs (PW0 | PR3 | PM6)
• see also pgmfi wiki on the subject

Note: If you do not see your car or ECU specifically listed here, please check to make sure you do not have an unsupported setup before purchasing anything!

Supported Tuning Software

• Neptune (targets primarily 92-95 OBD1 ECU hardware, very actively developed, advanced feature set, per-vehicle licensing)
• eCtune (targets primarily 92-95 OBD1 ECU hardware, starting to be poorly maintained, advanced feature set, per-vehicle licensing)
• CROME Pro (targets OBD1 ECUs, supports datalogging, getting to be poorly maintained, great for “simple” tunes, flexible licensing)  There is a very nice PDF tutorial written up by Darren Kattan. Check it out by clicking HERE.
• CROME (as above, free but without datalogging support)
• BRE (Primarily targets OB0 Vtec computers: PR3, PW0. Also has limited support for PM6. Only recommended for “simple” setups. Not very actively supported)
• TurboEdit (Primarily targets OBD0 non-vtec computers, i.e. PM6. Only recommended for non-vtec engines and very simple setups. Not very actively supported)
• Uberdata (Older application. Targets OBD1 platform. Once thought to be dead but seems to be some recent development activity)
• FreeLog (Free, datalogging package, works with Crome, not heavily supported/updated.)

John Cui

CROME is a ROM-Editor written primarily for OBD I Honda ECUs. A Pro version is available for $149 which unlocks a hidden data-logging feature.

CROME works natively with the following Moates hardware:

• Ostrich (both 1.0 and 2.0)
• Burn1
• Burn2
• HuLog (both Xtreme HuLog and Original HuLog)
• HondaLog

[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BKpLKHEwWXY[/youtube]