Demon

Introduction

The Demon is the newest in our line of Honda/Acura-friendly P28/P30/P72-compatible technology. Flawless realtime emulation, embedded datalogging, auxiliary ports, 16x calibration storage and encryption.   The Demon is designed to fit inside both USDM and JDM ECUs including those with knock boards.   The Demon combines the features of the Ostrich, Hulog, RTP, and adds its own unique feature set.  The Demon requires software to specifically support many of its features – not all software support is equal.

Software Support

As of 11/03/09 software support is as follows:
Neptune: Full emulation+data+onboard (release)
ecTune: Emulation+data (release)
Crome: Emulation+data (beta)
Please note that each Demon has a serial number – NepTune and eCtune both license a single copy of the software to a single Demon.  The exact procedure for this is different for each software package.

Datalogging Memory

The first production runs of Demons have 1 Mbyte memory for storing datalogging.  Current (starting around April 2010) production units have 4Mbyte memory.  Early production units can have their memory upgraded.  If you are interested in this service, purchase the Install Service item and note in the “Comments” field of your order that you would like the Demon memory upgrade.  You’ll have to send your Demon back to us – turnaround time is normally about 2 weeks.

Switching Between Software

You can now more easily switch among the different applications using our Config Utility for resetting the state of your Demon.

O-Meter

O-Meter
Check out the documentation to understand what all this unit can do! Does AFR/Lambda/Universal display, data storage, etc. Fully user configurable through two easy-touch buttons. Available in red (brighter) or blue (not as bright but looks cool!). Blue is a little more because of the parts cost.

Here is the instruction guide for the O-Meter so you can read about all the features:
http://www.moates.net/zips/ometer_guide.pdf

Here is a video of the O-Meter in action:
http://www.moates.net/zips/ometer_1.mpg

Here are pictures of how to hook up the wiring between the O-meter and the LC-1:
http://www.moates.net/images/ometer/wiring/

The O-Meter’s physical dimensions are 2.500″ x 1.625″ x 0.800″

Ostrich 1 Operation

Ostrich
Here’s how you install the Ostrich:  (Much of this will apply to the Ostrich 2 as well but pictures will be different.)

1) Get on the website here in the ‘software and drivers’ section and download and unzip the ‘USB Drivers’ file. Remember where you put it.

2) Plug the Ostrich into the USB port of your PC, and point the operating system to the previously located USB Driver directory and install the drivers. See the USB Driver Installation Guides here on www.moates.net for further guidance in this regard.

3) Go into the drivers and set the COM port of the USB to Serial Converter (under Ports in the Device Manager of the Windows Control Panel). Set it to COM3 or COM4. Override any warnings against ‘port in use’ or any of that nonsense. Again, refer to the USB install guides for more info.

4) While in the port settings, set the latency to ’1′ (default=16). This will speed it up dramatically.

5) Use TunerPro RT or a similar program to upload a binary to the Ostrich, and verify that it is uploaded correctly.

6) Hook it up to the vehicle, and go to town. When installing the ribbon cable where the chip normally goes, orient the red stripe so that it faces where the chip notch or arrow (pin #1) would normally face.

Note: If you have the car off, and the Ostrich is hooked up to the car’s ECU, then sometimes an upload/verify won’t work right. Just turn the car on, or disconnect the Ostrich during the initial upload, and everything should be fine.

There are jumpers inside the Ostrich, depending on how many pins / memory size you are emulating to.
The following pictures illustrate three different ones: 24, 28, and 32-pin. The 32-pin is only used for Ford EEC-V applications right now.

24-pin (with associated pictures for an installation where the original chip was a 2732A in a 1227747-style GM ECM):
Here’s the jumper settings, set for 24-pin emulation:

Here’s the socket that is soldered in the ECM. Note the direction of the notch (to the right) indicating where the original chip pin #1 would go:

Here’s one way to do it, first right before insertion and then after it is snapped down in. Really it is preferable to use a ZIF socket here. Notice the 24-pin socket that is stacked onto the bottom of the regular 28-pin emulation cable. You can just use the 28-pin with the extra 4 pins hanging over as well. Note the red stripe toward where the notch would normally go:

28-pin Installation using the G1 chip adapter, similar to that used in a 1986-92 TPI GM ECM:
Check out the jumper settings. Note that this is the configuration that the Ostrich is shipped with, and works for the majority of the applications.

Note the direction of the notch on the chip, despite the direction of the ZIF handle. This is counter-intuitive for many, and is relatively unique to the G1 / TPI-style adapter due to spatial constraints in the ECM housing:

Now we take the chip out, and put the emulation cable in. Note the red stripe and how it is oriented compared to the notch on the chip that was there before:

32-pin Jumper Settings, presently only used for EEC-V applications:

Honda Chipping Kit Install

This is Keebler65′s old guide. Some of the chipset and software info is a bit dated, but the techniques are good.

ECU Chipping

You need to add a few additional components to the original Honda ECU. It requires some soldering skills and should not be attempted unless you have soldered before. (Chances are you know someone with soldering skills that could help you). Here is a picture of the P28 ECU that I chipped, before any of the parts were put in:


Before you can solder the parts in, you will need to de-solder the holes in the circuit board since they come filled with solder from the factory. You can buy a “solder sucker” to do the job, however unless you get a nice one (expensive) they don’t really work well in my opinion. The cheap and easy solution is to buy some solder braid. It’s just braided copper. Simply place it over the hole to be de-soldered, and place the soldering iron on top of the braid. It will then wick up the solder into the braid. It’s available at radioshack:


You’ll want to use a decent quality soldering iron to get the job done nicely. The important thing is to not use too much heat, and also make sure the iron has a fine tip on it. I’m using a standard Weller iron:


Here is what it should look like after the board has been de-soldered:


The parts that need to be added are boxed in with a dashed white line. The parts consist of (2) .1uF ceramic capacitors, (1) 1k resistor, (1) wire jumper (simply a piece of wire…I used a lead of the resistor), (1) 74HC373 chip, and (1) 29C256 chip (thats the EPROM). The resistor and capacitors have no polarity, so you don’t have to worry about installing them backwards. The 74HC373 chip does have a polarity. Pin 1 will be on the left side of the pic (you’ll see in detail later one). The same is true for the EPROM chip. Since it would be impossible to burn a chip and have the tune be perfect, it becomes obvious that you don’t want to solder the chip in. Instead, use a socket so that it can be removed. You have two options: for less than $1, you can get a standard DIP socket. The problem is these are very hard to insert and remove the chips since there are 28 pins (it requires a lot of force and is hard to grip the chip). Your second option would be a ZIF (Zero Insertion Force) socket, which costs less than $10. It is a socket that has a lever: pull up the lever, set the chip in/lift it out, and flip the lever back – VERY nice to have since you’ll be doing this many times while tuning. Be careful when ordering the ZIF socket, as many of them are too large to fit on the board without running into things. The first ZIF I bought was made by Aries, and it was a very quality piece, however, it was too large and bulky to fit without a lot of modification to other components on the board. I ended up ordering a different one that was much more compact. I am unaware of the brand, however it is blue and is referred to as a low-profile ZIF. The only problem was that the lever end of it was in the way of the 74HC373. The easy solution is to buy a standard DIP socket as mentioned above. Solder this onto the board. Then, stack the ZIF onto this socket, which raises the ZIF away from the board enough to clear the surrounding parts. This setup worked very well for me. The following picture shows the too-big-to-fit ZIF in the back-left, the low-profile ZIF in the front left, and the DIP socket on the right:


The ZIF socket stacked on the DIP socket for added height:


And finally, a couple of pics with all of the parts installed:



I ordered most of my parts from www.jdr.com except for the low-profile ZIF socket and DIP socket, which I obtained from www.jameco.com. The following table containse the exact part numbers that I ordered. You’ll notice that I ordered two EPROMS. This way, it will be easier to burn one while the other is installed.

Part Number Quantity Description Source
29C256-12PC 2 This is the chip that you burn with Uberdata JDR
74HC373 1 The other chip that is reqired JDR
R1.0K 1 1K resistor JDR
.1UF 2 .1uF capacitors JDR
102744 1 Low profile ZIF Socket Jameco
40336 1 28 Pin DIP socket Jameco

Additionally, I have recently located all of the parts you will need from one source. DigiKey is where you can find them. Their inventory selection can be overwhelming, so here are the part numbers you will want:

Part Number Quantity Description
AT29C256-70PC-ND 2 This is the chip that you burn with Uberdata
MM74HC373N-ND 1 The other chip that is reqired
1.0KEBK-ND 1 1K resistor
478-4279-3-ND 2 .1uF capacitors
A347-ND 1 Low profile ZIF Socket
A409AE-ND 1 28 Pin DIP socket

And for a final update to this page, I’d like to add that you can find ALL of the necessary chipping parts at moates.net. It is a great deal in my opinion, and you’re guaranteed to get the correct parts the first time around. It’s under the name of “Honda ECU Chipping Kit”.

Bluetooth Install on Ostrich

Bluetooth
For the Ostrich2, the following will show you how to install the Bluetooth into the unit:
1) Open the Ostrich (two screws), keep track of the two nylon spacers.
2) Gather up the Bluetooth kit parts as shown in the pictures below.
3) Place the pin headers on the Bluetooth module and snap them on, and then solder it in place as shown.
4) Screw the unit back together (no cleaning necessary) and connect using Bluetooth software (separate tutorial available).
For the original Ostrich, look here:
Ostrich BT Install Pictures
Basically, it is as follows:
1. Remove jumper caps and install shielded angle header.
2. Install module.
3. If you want to go back to USB, then REMOVE bluetooth module and you can put the jumper caps back in place.

HULOG/HondaLog Installation

Hulog/Hondalog
Installation of Honda-Based USB Datalogging Tools

There are two tools available for datalogging on Honda ECUs from www.moates.net and they include the HULOG and the HondaLog.

HULOG: The HULOG comes in a plastic enclosure and ONLY requires a pin swap if it is an older unit. All the new units come with 1:1 connector pinning, so will differ from the pictures shown in that no pin swap is required or will be present on the extension cable. It can be mounted externally or internally, depending on whether you want to pass the 4-pin header cable or a USB cable out of your ECU.

HondaLog: The HondaLog can be mounted directly to the ECU with no interconnecting cable It can also be mounted at the end of a 4-pin tether cable. Either way, no pin swap is required (note color of wires and their order in the pictures). The unit is shipped with two pinning options in terms of the attachment header. It also comes with a piece of shrink-wrap tubing in case you want to ‘wrap that rascal’ when you’re done. Either way, it goes to your USB cable and PC on the other end.

Pictures are shown below for the two units. The installation header is a 4-pin latching unit, and comes with the moates.net Honda Chipping Kits. You can alternatively use a 4-pin 0.025″ square-post breakaway header. Please take note of the directionality of the latch on the interconnecting cable though, since that is critical.

HULOG Pictures



HondaLog Pictures



Honda Tuning with Crome Tutorial

Honda Tuning with Crome
This is a very nice PDF tutorial written up by Darren Kattan. Check it out by clicking HERE.

G3/GP3 Configuration and Use

G3/GP3
The ‘G3′ Switching Adapter
(also: Using the ‘EX’ with the G3)

For placing several different binaries on a single chip for GM applications, the G3 adapter is the hot ticket. By ‘stacking’ the binaries on a large-sized memory, and using the included switching ability, you can swap between different programs on-the-fly while the car is running. You could have ‘Valet’, ‘Economy’, ‘Nitrous’, or whatever else you want to put together.

First a little background. A memory chip is accessed by changing the state of various connections or pins. Some of the pins are called address lines. They tell the chip which data to present. There are low address lines (A0 through A14) and high address lines (A15 through A18). The larger chips like the AM29F040 have A0-A18, or 19 address lines. What the G3 adapter does is take ‘manual’ control of the address lines A15-A18. If you study binary stuff, you’ll know that this will give you 16 different memory ‘banks’ which can be selected.

On the G3 are several components, including one thermofuse (looks like a capacitor) to protect against shorts when using the ‘EX’ module, four capacitors which help dampen RFI pickup from the EX cable, two jumpers to set the operating modes (see below), and a rotary DIP switch to select which bank of memory is to be accessed.

Installation instructions for the G3 adapter are very similar to those for the ‘G1′ adapter, so see the section under ‘G1′ instructions for guidance in this regard.

Think of the G3 as an old-style channel selector on a TV. You just turn the knob, and the car’s ECM will see a different channel or ‘bank’ of memory. Put the switch to position zero, and all the ‘high’ address lines will be set to 5v. Thus, the actual memory location that will be accessed on a 29F040 will be 78000-7FFFF. If the switch is set to position ‘F’, then all the high address lines will be set to GND, or ‘low’. In this case, the reference memory will be 00000-07FFF. You can see how this lets you put up to 16 programs on a single chip and select between them. The switch positions are numbered 0-F, which is just hexadecimal for zero through 16.

There are several different hardware configurations which are possible with the G3. This increases flexibility along with the confusion factor. Let’s look at these combinations individually:

1) Putting a 29F040 chip in the G3, and operating with an ECM that originally takes a 27C128 (16k bin) or 27C256 (32k bin). This gives you 16 bins.
2) Putting a single 29C256 or 27SF512 chip in the G3, operating in ‘passthrough’ mode with no switching.
3) Putting a 29F040 chip in the G3, and operating with an ECM that originally takes a 27C512 (64k bin). This gives you 8 bins.
4) Putting a 27SF512 chip in the G3, and operating with an ECM that originally takes a 27C256 or 27C128. This gives you 2 bins.

The most typical cases are (1) and (2), so we’ll talk about them first.

For operating instructions on the ‘EX’ module, see the bottom of this page.

Case 1:
Originally a 27C128 or 27C256, use a 29F040 chip to switch between 16 programs.

First thing you will want to do is ‘assemble’ your big 512k binary from a group of smaller ‘stock-size’ binaries that you create or collect. The screenshot shows the configuration screen in ‘TunerPro’ under the BIN stacker function whereby the proper settings have been selected.

Notice how the bin size here is 16k (originay a 27C128) and the chip size is 512k (for a 29F040). The switch size for the Case-1 hardware configuration is 32k. This is going to create a 512k fie that you can then burn directly to a 29F040 chip without any offsets. Also note that TunerPro does the BIN order reversing for you, so all you need to worry about is which switch position is associated with which BIN.

The jumper positions for this Case-1 are such that both jumpers should be placed in the ‘down’ position as shown in the picture. This will allow full access to a 29F040 chip’s memory banks via the switching with bank sizes up to 32k. Make sure the notch on the chip is facing to the left as shown.

Case 2:
Originally a 27C128, 27C256, or 27C512 chip, use a 29C256 or 27SF512 chip as a single-program pass-through application.

If you want to use the G3 as just a straight adapter and not a switcher, this can be done very easily. Just program the chip as you normally would for a single-program application and put it in the adapter.

Only trick is to make sure that you set the jumpers to the ‘up’ or 29C256 position. This will allow the G3 to act just like a ‘G1′ adapter, passing the signal directly through and bypassing the switching functionality. Make sure the chip is moved over to the right, with the notch facing left.

Case 3:
Originally a 27C512 chip, use a 29F040 chip to switch between 8 programs.

Now we’re getting to some more ‘flexible’ appication of the G3. For this case, the jumpers should be set as shown, with J1 in the ‘down’ or 29F040 position and J2 (right) in the ‘up’ position. You still stack your BINs using the TunerPro Bin Stacker, but the settings should be such that your Bin Size=64k, Chip Size=512k, and Switch Size=64k.

When switching in this mode, there will be a little difference. In this mode, position 0-1 are the same and 2-3 are the same and so on. So, in terms of which BIN you will be accessing, you’ll be seeing BIN0 in positions 0-1, BIN1=2-3, etc through BIN7=E-F. This gives you 8 binaries you can put on the chip and select from, with a switch occurring every ‘other’ switch position.

Case 4:
Originally a 27C128 or 27C256 chip, use a 27SF512 chip to switch between 2 programs.

OK, so you don’t want to run 16 different binaries? Just two? Here’s an option for you. Set up your BIN in TunerPro again, with the Bin Size=16 or 32k, chip size=64k, and switch size=32k. Set the jumpers with J1 in the ‘up’ position and the J2 in the ‘down’ position. This will allow the A15 line to get switched every other switch position.

When operating in this mode, the first bin will be accessed at switch positions 0,2,4,6,8,A,C,E and the second BIN will be accessed in the other positions. This gives some switching flexibility without the confusion of millions of binary files.

That’s about it in terms of G3 operation. Again, the installation is pretty much the same as for the G1 so see that section for instructions in that regard.

Using the ‘EX’ module:

The function of the ‘EX’ module is that of a remote BIN switching device and display indicator. When used with the G3, the ‘local’ G3 rotary switch should be placed in the ’0′ zero position!

If you want to have a ‘AntiTheft’ or ‘Valet’ mode, you should put that binary in position zero, so you can disconnect the EX and carry it with you. It can be unplugged from the ribbon cable at any time. Don’t worry about plugging it in backwards. It won’t short out, it just won’t work right and won’t light up. If it lights up with the car on, you’ve got it right.

That’s all there is to it!
Confused? Me too.

HDR1

HDR1
Instructions for using the ‘HDR1′ Memory Header

The HDR1 memory adapter is primarily designed to download the existing code from a stock Memcal.
It can be used for other things as well. For instance, if you want to use a UV eraser on your stock Memcal and then reprogram it without tearing stuff up, the HDR1 allows this to be done very easily.

Step 1: Take the stock Memcal (or whatever) and identify where the pins come out for the existing EPROM.

Step 2: Insert the HDR1 into the Memcal and note the orientation of the existing chip.

Step 3: Place the assembly into your favorite chip reader / programmer (AutoProm shown, chip notch facing ZIF handle, empty spaces nearest to handle).

Step 4: Go ahead and read or re-program the chip.

That’s it! No mess, no fuss. Pretty straightforward.

G2 Adapter Installation

G2
G2 TBI-Style 2732-to-29C256 Adapter Installation Instructions:

Here is a pictorial depiction of a G2 installation in a TBI-style ECM.
It shows the following:

1) Disassembly and removal of stock socket body.
- Take note of the ‘stock’ 2732A chip orientation. Your 2732A chip will probably be in a little plastic holder.
- Try and overcome the challenge presented by the disparity between that fact and this pictorial guide.
- Take apart the ECM case, loosen screws that hold ‘daughterboard’, and get everything free so you can get to the underside.
- Be careful with ribbon cables which are often glued to the ECM housing areas.
- Measure spacing between row of chip socket pins, and make sure you order the correct adapter part (0.6 or 0.45″).
- Using small screwdriver, gently pry plastic off of pins. It should come free, leaving pins to be desoldered individually pretty easily. This may not work as well with 0.45″ spacing sockets, and you might have to desolder the whole socket at the same time or mutilate it a little bit to get it out.

2) Desoldering of stock socket pins, removal of solder from holes using solder sucker.
- Apply heat and remove each individual pin (assuming you were successful with step (1).
- Use solder sucker to open up each hole for acceptance of the ‘new’ socket.

3) Soldering in place of a 24-pin collet-pin DIP socket. (For 0.45″ spacing, 12-pin SIPs are used instead).
- Just like it says. If you want a very low profile install, skip this step and go to step (4), except solder it in place instead of pressing it in.

4) Placement of G2 adapter along with optional ZIF and associated chip.
- Just like it says.

5) View of relative clearance and reassembly.
- Check and make sure it’s not going to hit anything when installed back in the car. If you have clearance issues, you might want to consider the solder-in option mentioned in (3-4).

Note that the height can be reduced by not using the ZIF socket, and can be further reduced by soldering the adapter directly in as mentioned (bypassing the DIP or SIP socket install).

These pictures should give you the information you need with respect to procedures, relative socket / adapter / chip orientation, etc.
However, if after viewing this you still have questions, just let me know at my email address on the main page and I’ll do my best to field them.

Have fun!

File Uploads and Downloads

File Uploads and Downloads
Files Available for upload or download including stock binaries, custom bins, datastream definitions, source code, etc.

Please note that you must have a Moates webstore account and be logged in to access the files:
http://www.moates.net/files.php/