Troubleshooting: Ostrich

General Troubleshooting Procedure

The first thing you should do if you are having trouble with the Ostrich is to follow the instructions in the “USB Troubleshooting Guide” which you can find here – for the rest of this guide, it is assumed that your Ostrich has been assigned a COM port and you have selected the appropriate settings for it in device manager.

The ostrich is a ROM emulator – this means that it is designed to look like an EPROM to a target system, like your ECU. If you have a working ROM Burner (such as the BURN1 or BURN2) you can quickly and easily test your hardware. We will be using the BURN1 programmer and an Ostrich 2.0 in the following example, but any ROM burner that can read 27C512 EPROMs will work. The Ostrich 1.0 works identically to the Ostrich 2.0. Follow the “Hardware Test Instructions” to verify that your Ostrich hardware is working correctly.

If you’re reasonably certain that your hardware is working right but you still can’t get the Ostrich working with your ECU / ECM of choice, take a look at the “Software Setup” section for hints and writeups on using the Ostrich with particular applications.

Hardware Test Instructions

  1. For this test, download a 64k ‘test’ bin from here:
    http://www.moates.net/zips/00-512-TEST.zip
    Unzip it and save the file somewhere you can find it.
  2. For this test, you will need your ROM burner software installed and working. (in this case, Flash and Burn). We will also be using TunerPro RT for uploading files to the Ostrich. Even if you do not usually use TunerPro RT, please use it for this test as it is known to communicate with the Ostrich flawlessly.
  3. First check: TunerPro RT should say something in the lower window about finding an Ostrich. If your Ostrich shows up in device manager as a COM port but TunerPro RT does not detect it, you probably have a defective unit and need to RMA it.
  4. Next check: The Ostrich2 has different modes of operation for 28 and 32 pin operation, both electronically and with switches. Ensure that both switches are set to the 28 pin position. Make sure the “Emulation Banks” toolbar is visible in TunerPro. The Ostrich should be set for Bank0 for 28 pin operation. Try setting the Ostrich to Full 4Mbit (for 32 pin operation) and back to Bank0 (for 28 pin operation) to be sure your Ostrich is not stuck on an incorrect bank.
  5. Quit TunerPro.  Download the DORESET program and run it.  (It’s pretty simple and self explanatory.)  Even if you haven’t used one of these programs, it wouldn’t be a bad idea to run this just-in-case an incorrect vendor ID got set somehow.  After you are done, quit the DORESET utility.
  6. Re-open TunerPro RT.  Now it is time to load a file. Open a binary file that is the same size as you use in your ECU. Click the button with an up arrow on it to upload the file to your Ostrich. You should see the status bar in Tuner Pro flash as the file uploads. (Note: this will be very fast – under a second usually)
  7. (I need to take screenshots for this but… In order to verify with Tunerpro, you need to load a XDF and a binary that *should* work with that XDF…  Doing a verify with Tuner Pro without loading a file/XDF will result in unpredictable behavior)
  8. Now do a verify in Tuner Pro.
  9. Disconnect your ostrich’s USB cable from the PC. Connect your ROM burner and fire up its software. Connect the socket at the end of the Ostrich’s ribbon cable in your ROM burner like it was an EPROM.
  10. Make sure the switch on your Ostrich 2.0 is set to the appropriate setting for the cable you are using.  if you are using a 28 pin cable, both switches should be towards where the USB cable plugs into the Ostrich.   (the Ostrich1 didn’t have external switches)
  11. In your ROM burner’s software, load the same file that you uploaded to your Ostrich using TunerPro RT. Make sure you choose an EPROM that is the same size as the file you are uploading (i.e.  27SF512 for 64k)
  12. Perform the “Verify” function. If your Ostrich is working correctly, the Ostrich should “verify” successfully. If your Ostrich passed this test, it is 100% working and you should do a happy dance!
  13. If your Ostrich failed the “Verify” in the ROM burner software, try plugging the USB cord from your Ostrich back in to your PC and repeating the Verify test in your ROM burner software. If the Ostrich passes the test when the USB cord is plugged in but it fails when it is unplugged, one of the ground or power pins on the socket is damaged. Carefully inspect the socket for broken pins. Carefully inspect the ribbon cable for frayed or damaged wires. Emulation cables (see here) can be ordered at a fraction of the cost of a new unit.
  14. If your Ostrich does not verify with the USB cable connected to the computer but you did pass the earlier verify in TunerPro RT, there is a problem with the Ostrich communicating down the ribbon cable with the target system. Look at the ribbon cable with the socket VERY carefully. Are there any broken pins? (this is very common) If you are sure that your cable is good but your Ostrich still fails this test, it will have to be RMAed.

Software Setup

How to setup Ostrich in CROME

(more will be added here later)

USB Drivers – FTCLEAN

FTDI provide a utility called “FTCLEAN” that forcibly removes drivers from your computer.  WARNING: THIS WILL BREAK ALL DEVICES THAT USE FTDI DRIVERS, NOT JUST MOATES HARDWARE. Do not attempt this procedure unless reloading the drivers has failed to restore your devices to full functionality.  You should not be thinking about doing this unless you have followed all the steps in USB Troubleshooting 101 and USB Driver InstallationAgain, this is a procedure to save as a LAST RESORT.  WARNING WARNING WARNING!

With that out of the way, you’re looking at this page because your USB drivers are very broken.  You have devices in Device Manager with yellow exclamation marks that cannot load, cannot start or just plain don’t work.  This procedure will forcibly remove everything FTDI related and allow you to start over with a clean slate.

  1. Step one: download FTCLEAN from FTDI’s website – link
  2. Step two: unzip the file into a directory on your computer.
  3. Step three: run FTCLEAN.EXE
  4. Step four: click “Clean system” then click Yes to confirm
  5. Step five: REINSTALL FTDI DRIVERS!!!  You should be starting from scratch.

USB Driver Troubleshooting 101

About Moates USB Products

Almost all Moates.net products have a USB interface to connect to a computer. (ALDU1, HULOG, Hondalog, BURN1/2, Ostrich 1/2, Roadrunner, Quarterhorse, Jaybird) Fortunately, all Moates.net products with a USB interface use the same USB support chip so they can all use the same drivers. This makes it easy for you – one driver install will take care of ALL Moates products! Check out USB Driver Installation for more on how to reinstall drivers.

The chip in our devices is made by a company called FTDI. This chip is VERY common and is used in everything from USB-serial and USB-parallel adapters sold in computer stores to other automotive electronics products. This is important because of the possibility of a driver conflict between drivers for your Moates.net devices and other devices that also use the FTDI chips. AEM FIC, Hondata S300 and K-Pro and the USB Instruments Stingray and Swordfish (among others) have a tendency to obliterate our drivers and cause driver conflicts. Be warned: the troubleshooting instructions later on this page may cause other devices that use the FTDI chips to stop working. Tip: If you start having driver conflicts, installing the latest drivers from FTDI will often be enough to resolve conflicts and make everything work again.

Making Sure Everything is Working and Configured

First step to making sure you don’t have a connection issue is to unplug all USB devices that are not absolutely necessary from your computer.

First, Right click on My Computer. (You might find this on the desktop, you might find this in your start menu. Desktop pictured)

Next, go to the Hardware tab and select “Device Manager.” (note: Windows XP is pictured, but the exact placement of device manager may vary slightly in Win98 and Vista)

Next, go to the “Ports” section of device manager and click the + sign next to it to open it, if it is not already open. You should see something like this:

Now plug in ONE of your Moates.net devices. We are going to plug them in one at a time to figure out which ports Windows is assigning to them. Assuming everything is working, you should see something like this in device manager:

The “USB Serial Port” device pictured is using COM10. Some software has issues with COM ports greater than 8, so the first thing we are going to do is change the port it uses to a port less than 8. Looking at device manager, you can see that Bluetooth Communications Port has used COM5 and a Communications Port has used COM1. We should not use either of these ports. We are going to change to COM3, which is unused. First step: right click on the “USB Serial Port” device and click “Properties.”

Next, click on the “Port Settings” tab at the top of the Window.

Next click the “Advanced” button.

On this screen, there are several things to change. First change the COM Port Number to COM3, the port we decided was open. If all of your ports say “in use” you can still select them, but it is recommended you find an unused port under 8. Second, set the Latency Timer to 1 msec. When you are done, click OK on this screen and the driver screen that follows until you are back at Device Manager.

These are the optimal settings for our devices (COM1 – COM8 and Latency = 1ms). If you had trouble, try again with these settings. Remember which port your device was using in device manager when it comes time to configure your tuning software.

Common Issues with USB Drivers and Connections

It is possible to disable devices in Windows. Sometimes this can happen accidentally. If a device is disabled, it has a red X across its icon, like the Bluetooth Communications Port in this picture.

To enable it, right click on the device and select “Enable.” Afterwards, the device should not have a red X across its icon.

Devices can also have issues loading or have device driver problems. When this happens, a yellow exclamation mark appears. Almost 100% of the time, this is a sign that you need to reinstall device drivers. If a simple reinstall does not fix the issue, there is a more heavyhanded method to reinstall drivers using FTCLEAN.

USB Driver Installation

USB Drivers are needed for almost all products.  You only need one driver package for ALL Moates USB products.  One for all and all for one?  :)

You can find drivers we know work for Windows 2000/XP/Vista can be downloaded by clicking here There is a Vista Specific Guide that may be helpful to those running Vista.

You can find drivers we know work for Windows 98/ME can be downloaded by clicking here

OR you can find the latest drivers available directly from the USB chip’s manufacturer here

Tip: it is recommended that you use the drivers from our site unless you have issues – sometimes the latest generic drivers have odd quirks/bugs.  These drivers can be handy if you have conflicts with other devices on the system.

If you have trouble, start with this troubleshooting guide.

If you have trouble, you may also want to look at FTDI’s Installation Guides for your OS.

Unsupported Honda Setups

Unsupported Vehicles

  • V6 Hondas have very limited hardware and software support
  • K-series Hondas have no support from hardware we make at this time
  • 2001+ non-K series Hondas (D17, R18, etc.) have no support from hardware we make at this time
  • Automatic Hondas have very limited support. Very little has been done with automatic transmission controls and many tuning packages eliminate the code used to control auto transmissions.

Unsupported ECUs

  • Anything pre-1988 probably lacks spark control. There isn’t much if anything available software-wise for these ECUs. You might find 24 or 28 pin EPROMs inside, you might not. Your mileage may vary.
  • 1988-1991 DPFI (Dual Point Fuel Injection – Throttle Body Injection) ECUs have zero software support. 90-91 models can be chipped like an OBD1 ECU hardware-wise, but that doesn’t solve the software issue.
  • 1988-1989 Civic Si (PM6) and 1988-1991 CRX HF ECU (PM8) require a daughterboard we do not sell in order to be chipped. Use a 90-91 ECU on these model years.
  • 1992-1995 JDM GSR Automatic ECUs (hardware design makes chipping them impossible. Auto JDM P30s are ok)
  • 1996-2001 ECUs (OBD II – hardware design makes chipping very difficult to impossible, requires surface mount soldering tools and chips no longer available on the market.)
  • Prelude ECUs (trivially chippable, but unless you are going to develop the software support, it doesn’t currently exist)
  • V6 ECUs from Legend (early models can be trivially chipped, but unless you are going to develop the software support, it doesn’t currently exist)
  • NSX ECUs (early models can be trivially chipped, but unless you are going to develop the software support, it doesn’t currently exist)
  • Basically any ECU other than an Integra or Civic ECU is not well-supported

This information was last updated 2/4/09 by Dave Blundell.