G1

G1 Chip adapter picture

G1 Chip adapter picture

Overview

The G1 is an adapter that allows a chip or emulator to be plugged into OBD1 memcal based GM PCMs.

The GP1 kit is a G1 chip adapter and two 27SF512 flash chips packaged together at a lower price.

Compatibility

The G1 is compatible with the following vehicles:

  • 1986-1993 TPI & LT1
  • 94-95 TBI trucks

The G1 is compatible with the following chips:

  • SST 27SF512
  • 27C128/256/512 based eeproms

Details

Our revolutionary G1 adapter allows you to customize your ecu or pcm by bypassing your factory tuning, allowing you to insert your own custom programmed chip without the hassle of tearing apart your stock memcal. This can be useful if you plan on returning your car back to stock, or need to use your stock memcal as a template for a newly modified ecu.

(much of the content on the rest of this page is edited from Allan Reinke’s review on www.iroczone.com – thankyou very much)

So what exactly does this adapter do?  In case you don’t know, GM ECMs (1986 to 1993 TPI and some 94-95 TBI stuff) utilize a memory calibration “memcal” unit. This unit consists of the PROM (calibration code) and resistor packs (for limp mode, cold starts, etc.). The resistor packs consist of two chips. One a 16-pin and the other a 14-pin. These are custom laser etched type resistor packs making them extremely difficult to duplicate. In other words, you need these resistor packs, you cannot copy them (as of right now anyway) and your car will have a hard time starting without them. Some Memcals have a more compex ‘non-EPROM’ half which contains knock circuitry, and the original (or one very similar) Memcal needs to be used in conjunction with the adapter.

What the adapter does is allow you to plug in your resistor packs so your ECM will still use them, and at the same time, “bypass” your existing PROM chip so you can install your own.  By doing so, you can reprogram your ECM with no modifications to your factory memcal AND no soldering is required! The process of reprogramming your ECM is greatly simplified.  You no longer need to worry about destroying increasingly hard to find memcals with a bad soldering job when you use a G1 adapter!

Install Instructions

First things first. You need to access your ECM. This is easily done as it is located behind the dashboard, on the passenger’s side of the car. (In some other applications, it is located under the passenger’s seat area, in behind the dash, by the kickpanel, or under the hood usually up by the firewall.) If you look underneath the dash on the passenger’s side, you will see a wiring harness plugged into a silver box. This box is held in by two hex screws. First, carefully unplug the two connectors to the ECM (otherwise, you won’t be able to gain full access to the ECM as the wires will keep you from pulling the ECM all of the way out.) Each connector has a “latch” where you just push in the latch and wiggle out each connector. Take your time, they don’t just fall out.

Next, get a hex screwdriver or other means of removing the two screws holding the ECM in place. Once these are removed, the ECM falls right out (be certain to catch it!).

GM TPI ECM

GM TPI ECM

Now, with the ECM removed, you will need to use the screwdriver to remove the two screws holding the access plate on. Most of the time, the access plate will be stuck on the ECM. Use a small screwdriver and carefully pry around the access panel until it pops off.

TPI ECM - Cover removed

TPI ECM - Cover removed

Once the access panel is off, there sits your memcal. If your Memcal looks like this, then the G1 adapter should work for you. If not, then look at some of the other adapters such as the G2 and see if that matches up. Using your fingers, press the latches on both sides, away from the memcal. Doing this will “pop” the memcal up.

TPI ECM - latches on memcal

TPI ECM - latches on memcal

Once the latches are fully out, the memcal should come right out.

TPI memcal - removed

TPI memcal - removed

The memcal will not usualy fit in the ECM (with the adapter) with it’s cover on. On some applications it will, such as some of the 1227730 and 1227749 units. So we will most likely need to remove the blue cover on the memcal so that it will fit back in there. Very CAREFULLY, remove the cover with a small screwdriver, prying the clips. Again, be careful, clips will break off.

pry GENTLY to remove memcal cover

pry GENTLY to remove memcal cover

You only need to do the one side just enough to pop the side up and the other side will come right off.

naked memcal :)

naked memcal :)

In this example, we are using a EPROM chip installed directly into the G1 chip adapter. This is a good “final” install after you have a program that you know works the way you want but it is not very easy to change the program in the chip. The advantage of this is that you are much more likely to be able to put the cover back on the ECM with just a chip installed. (i.e. no ZIF socket or emulator cable)  Install the chip with the U indention out. (Pin 1 faces left as in the picture) . If you are using a Flash chip such as the 29C256, then the chip will also have an arrow by Pin-1. This should also go out toward the edge of the adapter. Be sure to line up all of the pins on the chip and gently press it into the socket. Once you are comfortable with the feel, you will need to exert a little force to fully insert the chip. This can be tricky. Bent and broken pins can result if you are not 100% certain that all of the pins of the chip are lined up correctly.

EPROM installed in G1 adapter

However if you are just getting started tuning your car, you may want to use a ZIF socket (available from Moates.net for a small fee) or install the emulation cable from an Ostrich 2.0 or APU1 instead. You probably won’t be able to close the lid on your ECM, but it will be a lot easier for you to make changes to the program in the ECM.

After you have either a chip or emulation cable insterted in the G1 adapter, install your memcal onto the adapter. Simply line up the right side of the memcal to the right side of the pins on the adapter.

G1 adapter meets memcal

G1 adapter meets memcal

Press firmly and it should easily slide into place! In terms of original Memcal orientation on the adapter, make sure that the original ‘EPROM’ half is hanging off and that the ‘limp-home’ half is in contact with the angle header on the edge of the adapter.  It should look something like this:

G1 adapter with chip and memcal attached

G1 adapter with chip and memcal attached

Next, the G1 and memcal combination needs to be re-inserted into the ECM.  Place the adapter, memcal first, face down in the access panel. Then curve the adapter, memcal first toward the empty space in the ECM (bottom, but in the picture it’s up as the ECM is facing upside-down).


Once the adapter is in place, line up each side to each latch. See the pictures. Make sure it’s lined up before pushing down! You don’t want any bent pins in your ECM!

check one side

check one side

check other side

check other side

You have to ensure that the adapter is placed correctly in the ECM socket so that when you unlatch it, it’ll pop right up. It needs to be perfectly centered or you can bend pins in the ECM – not good. Once you are comfortable with the placement, press down on the adapter in the center of the two latches until the outer latches “click” and are in the “installed” position (up.)  Give yourself a pat on the back – you’ve completed the physical installation of the G1 chip adapter!

Reinstall the access panel (only if you are NOT installing the ZIF socket or if you are using a low-profile ZIF like the S4!!!) and reinstall the ECM in the car by following the steps you took to remove it in reverse. If you are using the ZIF socket for testing purposes, you’ll be happy to know that the access panel faces towards the front of the car, away from the dashboard. It may be a little neck tiring, but you will be able to replace chips while the ECM is installed.

Jaybird

The Jaybird

The Jaybird

Overview

The Jaybird is a USB based device used ONLY for loading tunes onto F3 adapters.  It is designed to be the simplest and cheapest solution for programming J3 style Ford chips.  It cannot program other chips.

The Jaybird CANNOT READ STOCK ECMs!!! If you require this functionality, you need to get BURN2+F2A+F2E instead.

F3

Overview

The F3 is a simple chip for EEC-based Ford ECUs allowing the stock program to be replaced with a tune of your choice.

To install, simply clean with contacts of the EEC connector with carb cleaner and a wirebrush, and slide the module on.

It is critical that the vehicle is fully off before installing or removing anything on the J3 port.  Failure to power-off the ECM correctly can result in frying our hardware, your ECM or both!!!  If you have any doubts at all, remove the keys from the ignition 100% or disconnect the battery.  WARNING WARNING WARNING!

Tunes can be loaded through the Burn1 via the F2A,  or directly via the Jaybird.

Switching Setup

The F3 can optionally store two programs and switch between them.  You can even switch between them while the vehicle is running.  The F3 adapter has a switch pin.  If you connect this switch pin to chassis ground, the program will switch too.  In order to program the second program you must ground the switcher line while programming!!! There is a ground pad provided next to the switcher pad for your convenience – a paperclip works wonders for programming.  (FYI – Dave often uses this for nitrous – regular NA program in one half of F3, program with a couple degrees of timing and/or more fuel in the other slot, wire the program switch wire to the nitrous solenoid – see diagram)

Take a look at this picture to get an idea of what you need to do:

One thing to be careful of when you are wiring your F3 for switching: NEVER NEVER NEVER connect your switch wire to 12V!!!  You will instantly fry the F3 if it sees more than about ~5volts.

The safe way to “flip” your F3 on an external signal (like nitrous) is to switch the GROUND side of your solenoid (i.e. wire to constant 12v, give the system a ground to trigger) and wire the F3′s switcher to your switched ground.

If this is not an option and you want to have a 12volt signal trigger your F3 to “flip,” you need to add a simple relay or reed switch as in the following diagram:

Honda Kit

Overview

The Honda chip kit contains all the components necessary to put a chip in your OBD I Honda ECU.

There are two varieties of this kit, the USDM and JDM versions. JDM ECUs are smaller square ECUs that require surface mount components. The USDM ECUs are rectangular and use standard thru-hole components.

This kit also comes with a replacement capacitor for the 200uF cap that is known to go bad in these older ECUs.

Compatibility

This kit is compatible with the following ECUs:

  • P28
  • P30
  • P72
  • P75
  • P05
  • P06
  • P08

HuLog/HondaLog

Overview

The HuLog, HondaLog, and Xtreme HuLog are USB datalogging adapters that are used to datalog Honda ECUs.

Functionally the devices are identical, however the HuLog/Xtreme HuLog come in ABS plastic enclosures for protection.

Also, the Xtreme HuLog will retain its COM port assignment regardless of what USB port is used.

Tips and Tricks

To achieve maximum performance out of this device (and all Moates devices) we recommend setting the latency timer to 1 ms. This can be changed in Windows XP by using the following procedure:

  1. Control Panel
  2. System
  3. Hardware
  4. Device Manager
  5. Ports (COM and LPT)
  6. USB Serial Port (COMx)
  7. Port Settings
  8. Advanced
  9. Latency Timer

Compatibility

The HondaLog/HuLog is compatible with:

  • CROME Pro
  • eCtune
  • Neptune

How to Buy

Please visit the Xtreme HuLog’s page in our website here

ALDU1

OVERVIEW

The ALDU1 is a datalogger designed to work with OBD I GM vehicles.

The ALDU1 is compatible with the CABL1 and the CABL2, which are interface cables that connect to GM OBD I and OBD II vehicle respectively.

The ALDU1 can be purchased by itself, or as a combo with either the CABL1 or CABL2.

CABL1 is used for ~88-94 GM OBD1 vehicles with a rectangular ALDL connector like this:

female ALDL connector

female ALDL connector - use CABL1

CABL2 is used only on 95 (and some late-year 94) vehicles that still speak ALDL but have the D shaped “OBD2-style” connector like this:

Female OBD2 port

Female OBD2 port - use CABL2

It can be interfaced with many pieces of software, including TunerPro.

In the event you need to build a custom cable, use the following pin outs for the RJ45 connector:

1=A(gnd)

2=B(diag)

3=E/M(data)

How to Buy

Take a look at the OBD1 GM section of our online store here

Test Procedure

The first step towards determining if your ALDU1 is working correctly is to look at the USB side.  Before you continue, you should have verified USB connectivity and you will need to know which COM port your cable is using.  Take a look at the USB troubleshooting guide if you have any questions or concerns here.

You will need to have TunerPro RT version 5.0 or later installed.

Test procedure:

  1. Start TunerPro RT with your cable plugged into your computer but unplugged from the vehicle.
  2. Load a valid XDF / ADS-ADX combination for your vehicle
  3. Go to Tools … Preferences and select “Use Plug-in” for Interface type.  Then make sure “TunerPro Data Acquisition I/O Interface” is selected.  Next, select “Configure Plug-in Component”  Then make sure “Standard Serial” is selected and the COM port shown matches the COM port of your cable. 
  4. Finally, click the “Test For Valid Interface Using Settings” to perform a test on the cable.

If your cable fails the above test, it will almost certainly need to come back to us for repair.  If it passes the above test, the hardware has passed a basic minimal test.